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is it in my best investment to use a 6" rod in a 383 build up v.s. a stock length 5.7" rod?
the only real cost difference it the piston price from what im seeing. and a Keith Black set of pistons isn't too costly to begin with.
also would the 383 with a 6" rod be able to live at higher RPMs BETTER v.s. the 5.7" rod 383? the intention of the 383 is street and strip. 5-6K miles a year and will possibly spin RPMs as high as 5500-5800 depending on heads/cam/induction,etc. looking to use a 2800rpms stall and 3.54 gears so the rpms will mostly be around 3800-5800rpms during the 1/4 mile.
i know i won't feel the difference of a 6" over a 5.7" but i know the motors internals will so thats why i ask these questions. will the motors performance benefit from that length rod or to make it easier should i stick with a typical stock 5.7"?
Either one will work fine, but the longer rod will reduce side loading (rod trying to push the piston thru the wall) which is supposed to free up a bit of power and give a bit more longevity. You;ll see many arguments on this. I personally prefer a long rod, IMO uses les energy at high rpm to overcome the rod angle thatn the shorter one.
if i can have patience i'd prefer to buy Crower rods,SRP/JE pistons and a Callies crank.
I just have been hearing bad news about the so called "chinese brand" auto parts. i have only heard poor remarks about SCAT/EAGLE brands on this site but nowhere else in my area. i might settle for some SCAT/EAGLE parts due to the price and avalibility.
1 brand im gonna stay away from is SPEEDPRO/TRW pistons. the aftermarket name has been getting worse from hearing about plenty of failures. why are they failing? i don't know...maybe its the owner of the cars driving/abuse,improper assembly from machine shop? for what ever reason that brand aftermarket product piston is not gonna be put in my motors. it could happen to a SRP but i've never heard of it.....yet.
if i can have patience i'd prefer to buy Crower rods,SRP/JE pistons and a Callies crank.
I just have been hearing bad news about the so called "chinese brand" auto parts. i have only heard poor remarks about SCAT/EAGLE brands on this site but nowhere else in my area. i might settle for some SCAT/EAGLE parts due to the price and avalibility.
1 brand im gonna stay away from is SPEEDPRO/TRW pistons. the aftermarket name has been getting worse from hearing about plenty of failures. why are they failing? i don't know...maybe its the owner of the cars driving/abuse,improper assembly from machine shop? for what ever reason that brand aftermarket product piston is not gonna be put in my motors. it could happen to a SRP but i've never heard of it.....yet.
Haven't seen the poor remarks you cite, from this forum. Please direct me.
I need to know if my stroker, with Eagle crank and rods, and Speed Pro hyper pistons , is going to self destruct soon!
I run a Scat 9000 series crank with 6" H-beam Scat rods and SRP pistons in my 406. This motor has spent 2 years and well over 100 passes at the drag strip along with over 10,000 miles of hard street driving. Rpm range at the track is from 6500-7300rpm, usually to 7000rpm on the street.
Still runs just as strong as when I built it. I had it pulled apart a few weeks ago and everything looks great.
i've recalled 2 threads in C4 tech with broken speedpro hypers this year.(2 isn't alot but i've heard about more)
a friend locally had 1 break in the same way as the others did and he used the coated skit hypers by speedpro in his 355.
Looked at the two threads on C4, actually 3 threads - one guy said he overheated during break-in, one was asking about what his speed shop told him, and the other one was just a comment. Given this level of info, I would not blanket condem SpeedPro hyper pistons. "Break the same way as the others did", how did the others break?? Detonation, piston pulling top ring loose, etc.?? Before I condem a manufacturer, I would like to know all engine specs and under what conditions the failure occured!
BTW, what generation Corvette do you own? You are posting lots of stuff in C4 and C3, which do you have? Usually, if it's not listed in your profile, you own nothing. Which COULD mean you're a
Nothing wrong with Scat products. Built a 6" rod 355 for a friend almost 2 years ago with KB hypers in it, he buzzes it on a reular basis to 7000 rpm with no problem. Most important thing is to find a machinist who is WELL INFORMED and make sure your tune is dead on. . Too many of these guys live under a solvent tank and aren't hip to the latest parts out there. There are many competent ones, just have to look to find them.
I don't believe the noob is a troll, seems he's just hunting for real info vs. the brand bashing he sees in C* section.
Nothing wrong with Scat products. Built a 6" rod 355 for a friend almost 2 years ago with KB hypers in it, he buzzes it on a reular basis to 7000 rpm with no problem. Most important thing is to find a machinist who is WELL INFORMED and make sure your tune is dead on. . Too many of these guys live under a solvent tank and aren't hip to the latest parts out there. There are many competent ones, just have to look to find them.
I don't believe the noob is a troll, seems he's just hunting for real info vs. the brand bashing he sees in C* section.
Yes, I guess I got carried away with the troll remark. I apologize. It's just that, lately, there are more and more posts from people who own nothing. Now if he was just asking about what he heard/read, that would be different, but for him to blanket condem a product, based on what what he saw on the internet or was told by a guy, that is not right. If the people who actually had the failures were to post, including the circumstances, the criticism of that product would be a lot more valid.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
The only negative thing about TRWs is their weight, I'm not sure about their (now) sister component, the Speed Pro. I have no experience with them. The TRW is fine otherwise, within it's limitations. It's not considered to be a weak piston.
The problem with the hypers is people not setting them up correctly. Top ring gap is very critical and if they're not gapped wide enough, they will self destruct in short order. Top gap is wider than conventional cast or forged pistons, second groove gap is important too. Also wall clearance is important for the given application and use. They are used with good results in lower buck drag and oval racing classes. I've had KB hypers in my engine for 20K miles now, through plenty of hard use, (frequently over 6000 RPM) racing and street driving w/ no problems. Like anything else, know what you're building and what you're building for. And yes, go with the 6" rod. There's really no downside to it and plenty of advantages.
Given this level of info, I would not blanket condem SpeedPro hyper pistons. "Break the same way as the others did", how did the others break?? Detonation, piston pulling top ring loose, etc.?? Before I condem a manufacturer, I would like to know all engine specs and under what conditions the failure occured!
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I had 20,000 some miles of care free operation in my 355 with KB hyper pistons. I didn't have trouble until I continued to upgrade cam shafts and heads. Once I started running the motor hard and shifting at 7000 or higher rpm is when it all came apart. When I contacted KB about the failure is when they told me about exceeding the design FPM with a 3.48 stroke at 7000 rpm. So with a longer 3.750 your max rpm would be significatly lower
"i have only heard poor remarks about SCAT/EAGLE brands on this site"
The only bad raps I have heard was from my engine builder (builds HiPo racing boat engines)was that in extreme cases, the Eagle "H" beam will split lenghtways along a visible parting line that the SCATs don't have.
Rated Eagle / Scat the same for cranks .