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Has anyone put a 4.125" into a stock block or heard of anyone doing it. I'm asking because I just got a smoking deal on one. Not planning on building the motor anytime soon, but gathering information
Has anyone put a 4.125" into a stock block or heard of anyone doing it. I'm asking because I just got a smoking deal on one. Not planning on building the motor anytime soon, but gathering information
It's not gonna happen (at least with a G.M. 400 casting). After 4.000" even with steel rods, you've got get the cam up +.300". Just finished a 421 (3.875" x 4.155") and had to use .870" base cam to get the rods past the cam. The C.H. on the slug would have to be way under 1.000". This has to be done with a "Rocket" block. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
The shortest off the shelf piston from SRP is 1.062 CH. Which could work with a 5.85" rod and slightly taller than 9.0" deck height. Only problem there would be that the crank supposedly needs 6.0" inch rods. I think that there would be some wiggle room in that number but I'm not sure if it would be enough.
I've also seen that some stroker profile h-beams offer more clearance than others, and that they can be ground. AKS Racing thinks a 4.125 could fit without hitting water. That would be tough to do though so I'd probably do a block fill to be safe.
I would use an aftermarket block and the tall deck model. Over the years I've seen 4 inch strokers, but the blocks had half of the water jacket filled.
One of the c-4 guys has a 4 inch stoker 350 block which is a 408 or something and he has 600 RWHP with his C-type blower. Nice looking yellow convert from Texas.
Keith - The best thing about the after market blocks is strength and revised oiling system. They are made to take the 4.125 stroker cranks without grinding. The main caps are bigger the the billet milodon caps in both my 383 and a previous splayed cap motor. The thicker cylinder walls.... right down the line are so much better than any chevy block other than the race blocks.
After building this 427 I would never use another stock block.
Duly noted. I won't be able to afford one in the near future though. The sensible thing to do would be to build a 383. But those are so common, i'd like to do something a little different. I really wish Scat still made those 3.80 stroke 9000 series. You can use them with 383 pistons and no decking to make a 391 or 394 out of a 350. I like the vortec block I've got because its already a roller.
Whats your current combo gkull? What happened to the high-winding 383?
You can get the 4.125 crank in the factory block. Just clearance it and get a small circle base cam with a stroker rod. You may have to grind on the rod some to make room. The crank will have to have the counterweights ground down a little for the shorter rod but other than that you are golden. As for tall deck aftermarket blocks, it's fun to fab spacers to make the intake fit on oddball heads!
There is an good article in this months PHR about extracting serious cubes.
So the 4.125" stroke with 5.85 rods 1.062 CH pistons sounds feasible by grinding down the counterweights, clearancing the block and rods, and small base circle cam.
One thing I've been wondering about for a while though, when should block fill be used? Before or after block machining and clearancing?
There is an good article in this months PHR about extracting serious cubes.
So the 4.125" stroke with 5.85 rods 1.062 CH pistons sounds feasible by grinding down the counterweights, clearancing the block and rods, and small base circle cam.
One thing I've been wondering about for a while though, when should block fill be used? Before or after block machining and clearancing?
Where did you read that the counterweights have to be ground down? When I get back home(from military trip), I plan on beginning my 396 SBC build. This is the first I've heard about grinding down the counterweights.
The only reason he has to grind the counterweights is because the crank was manufactured for 6 inch rods. This means that the counterweights are larger and may hit the piston skirt if used with the shorter rod. If the crank had been made for 5.7's they would be smaller from the factory and grinding would not be necessary. I would run this combination without any block filler. The 400 inch blocks always want to run hot and that would just compound the problem. Since your hp goals are not extreme I would run without. If you do want to fill it, I would do this before all the machining just to keep things lined up.
a 472 small block was built on Horsepower TV a few weeks back. Take a look at their site to see what went into it.
what a monster that thing was, forgot the exact numbers it put out, but it was damn impressive for a NA sbc.
They probably built it with either a Dart or Motown block. I don't think you can go that far with anything from G.M. unless you can get hold of one of the now discontinued Rocket blocks. Ls-1 can also go to 427, but I'm assuming you mean a gen 1 sbc.