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ok... I've been trying for a while to save up for my 427 build-up, but my school keeps stealing my funds... However, it looks as though I may be able to finally save up enough this winter work term. I'm just not sure what I want to do- whether I want to buy a motor ready to go or build mine up. I was planning on rebuilding the 427 this past summer, but upon further disassembly found that the rods would have to be reconditioned and the crank turned. I have the stock 390 horse heads. The block has been fitted with .030 pistons- don't remember which ones though right off hand... will check tomm. So, I guess I'd just like to see what it would cost either way to get somewhere around 600 to 650 horse. I thought about getting a stroker crank for it, but I'm just not sure... what do you all think? Wouldn't I need heads, crank, and rods for the 427 to get that much power?
Reconditioning the rods is chump change compared to the cost of a new set. Turning the crank should cost no more than 100.00. If you decide on a stroker crank, go internal balance...you can use your existing flywheel and harmonic balancer. Prolly 4.25" stroke will be the max on a std height block. That should yield you somewhere in the 480 cube mark..
If I were on a budget, I would stick with the stock crank, rods, and pistons and invest the $$$ in some good headwork and a street roller, either hydraulic or solid. There are also some good choices in a solid flat tappet cams.
either way, I think I'll end up with a nice set of heads to be able to hit that mark. I'd like to go with solid tappet or roller cam. I think I'd like to stick the 427 back in it, with or without the stock crank. Would the stock rods reconditioned hold up to the power alright? I'm just looking for the best route to where I'd like to be.
reconditioning the rods doesn't hurt the strength...if you're thinking of a solid roller, consider Comp cam's 288 or 308 street roller, very nice cams that are easy on the parts and power regardless the rpm range you're in.
You say your on a budget, and you want 600/650 hp Big HP=Lotsa$
My suggestion to you is to build a good solid foundation, 4 bolt mains, forged crank, H-beam rods. A Crane 690/708 solid roller, and a 250hp NOS kit. Best Bang for the buck. ATI damper. Make sure you have the heads done to allow that Big Block to breath.
What trans are you going to use? Rear suspension work is a must as it is the weakest link in a Vette.
I just went to solid bushed offset trailing arms, a 6 link suspension with 4.5 in carbon fiber half shafts for my 65 BB coupe that I'm building.
Rick.
Good Luck with your project Your fun is just beginning
well, I guess what I'm wondering is how much I'll need to budget to reach my goal with a good route. I don't want the nitrous yet, maybe later.... right now, I have a m21 for a trans, and I'll be getting into the rear-end soon. That will probably be next winter's project. your rear suspension sounds pretty mean- what are you going to have for a motor and trans?
pops has built numerous big blocks ovr the years
the 396's he routienly turned to 7500 with
little more than forged pistons and a good mechanical cam
so i know the stock internals are plenty strong
his current (ongoing) project is a 427 vega wagon
3 link back halfed 12 point cage 3100 lbs
.650 lift 300'ish duraton 108lsa and 11:1
with closed chamber oval port heads.
its all the 16 inch wide Mickey Thompsons
can do to hook up soo...
unless you just like obscene unusable power
a near stock BBC will still make you $#!T yourself
I admit the L-88 cam is a bit lazy, maybe the wide LSA?
what type of carb and intake are you using?
the best overall performance carb IMO is the
850 mech secondary holley jetted 76-82 primary
80-82 secondary with 35-45 powervalve (instead of blockoff)
a nice Team-G or other open intake also works best
(never tried an airgap)
the best power I ever got was with a 1050 on an offenhauser ram
although there wasn't much difference between that and the open intakes or the two-4 setup