Gearing up to rebuild my 383(LT1). Building with forged F/I pistons (most likly JEs) H beam rods and a as of yet undetermined forged crank (3.75 obviously). I have been lurking for a while now but figured I would throw it out there for your collective wisdom to concider.
My question is this is, there a good forged crank out there that people are using that will take high power but is budget friendly? I 100% understand that you get what you pay for and all that but also understand there are deals out there if you look and listen to peoples experiance/advice. I made 650RWHP/TQ corrected on the SCAT crank I have now and it never showed a sign of weakness but am building this time to push the envelope a little bit this time.

So have at it guys what do you recommend?

 

We have used the Scat cranks in quite a few street performance applications and have used the 6 inch rod crank as we have been able to internal balance the rotator and so far these have worked fine.

We have done some set ups with the Crower Stroker Sportsman rod and have had good luck and have used the SRP pistons by JE.

On the engines we have built we have used either the 2482 cap block or we have put splayed center caps as this strenthens the bottom and make for more of a stable enviorment for the crankshaft.

 

BLOCKMAN, thanks for the fast reply. I feel the need to add that this is a 4 bolt block and that I plan on using billet main caps and a 1/4 fill of the block. Would the added strength at the block/cap level help in any way help with the need to have a super duper crank? My hope at this point is to find a "budget 4340 forged crank in this application. I also feel the need to say I hope to push it to 1000RWHP once to get the number on paper and then dial it back to let it like at the 700-800 RWHP level.
I got my 650 RWHP/TQ numbers using SRP N/A pistons, eagle SIR "I" beam rods, and a low budget SCAT crank and feel fortunate I only lost a ringland with no damage to the block.

 

What is the application to make that kind of HP and some of the components you are using?

We sell alot of the Dart Little-M blocks with nodular iron caps and Dart rates them at 900 horse and there billet cap block I guess what ever you want to throw at it.

 

what are some specs oh your buildup, 650 RWHP is amazing

 

Hey guys, I have a 94 Vette with the 383 and a single turbo ( Schwitzer HT4oo). Specifics are as follows:

Stock Block .030 over
SCAT crank
Eagle SIR "I" beam rods
Forged JE SRP stock replacment pistons (-16 dish)
Ported stock LT1 intake
Canfield 196cc heads (untouched)
1.6 rockers
HT400 turbo w/ 5" down pipe
60 LB HighZ injectors
Twin 255 gph intank pumps
Custom made air to air intercooler
Tuned by me with LT1 edit using a 2 bar MAP in Speed density.

I started this project 3-4 years and it has turned out to be rather sucessful in my mind. The biggest problem (other than the sub-standard parts used in the bottom end of the motor was that I was forced to run a .074 headgasket to get the static CR down to 9.1-1. I worked with the guys at Cometics who swore it would hold (all runs were at 15lbs). True to their word it held and all was right with the world LOL. I had a previous best of 585/629 RW corrected with a stock LT1 cam and 1.6 rockers but when I swapped in a new cam that was designed by C.A.M (Jeff Creech /Milkman on here) and dont have the specs with me. I got it on the rollers for tuning with the new cam and it yeilded 650/650 corrected right off the bat but the ringland finally let go and I could not get any tuning done. I felt like their was at least another 50 hp at that level of boost just in tune and look forward to exploring what is in store higher boost levels.

 

for a sub $1K 4340 crank I would recomend a COLA
theyve been around forever and not offshore
they came highly reccomended from a guy I know
that runs quick8
he said "go ahead buy a crower but youre not gonna
hurt the cola"

 

When I was at the Pri show last month I heard that cola went out of bussiness again. (not Sure)

 

How about Callies, Crower or Lunati I know you said cost effective but do ya want to sacrifice cost for strength at this point makin all that power? GOOD LUCK WITH WHATEVER YA CHOOSE

 

I would run at least a Callies crank in an engine like that but if the money was there I would feel better with a LAE! If you don't turn it hard all the time the Callies will be ok but if you need to run it at near full output for long you will be money ahead with the LAE.

 

Sorry RJ.......nothing to add

 

I used a Crower Ultralight in my twin turbo SBC427 that made 1200hp/1000tq. It was overkill but I got a good deal on it. Turbo's aren't as hard on your rotating assembly as other forms of power adders, and in some cases, even high-rpm naturally aspirated engines. You don't have the sudden shock of nitrous, you don't have the twisting force from the supercharger belt at the snout, and you don't need to turn 7000+rpm to make huge power so the inertial and reciprocating forces aren't as high as a screaming racing engine. I know some guys in NMCA/NMRA making 1000+hp with turbo's using forged Scat cranks without failure. I'm probably going to use another Crower or maybe a Lunati 4340NT in my twin turbo LS7X I'm building.

 

-16cc is not a stock replacement. I'm assuming you're not zero decking so perhaps these'll be okay for your FI. These are their inverted domes, I assume? I'm using them in a zero deck stroker and w/ 56cc heads I'll end up around 11 to 1 or so depending on gasket selection. What's the chamber cc of your heads?

 

I am not zero decked but I may have not explained that correctly, -16cc pistons on a 6"rod 383 will bring you back to stock CR.

Thank you all for the advice I have decided on a path and appreciate the thoughts on the subject.

 

I was looking at your block picture - why did you grind the pan rail for every cylinder?

To the poster I would be looking at "Blower Pistons" and super rods of some sort. I had Manley 685 gram 6 inch H beam in my 383. they might take on the power levels your talking about if you keep the rpm down.

 

its a motown block
they come clearanced for a 4" stroke

 

check out www.ohiocrank.com they have been around for a long time

 

I agree with Monty about the Scat cranks and the affect that turbocharging has on the rotating assembly!! If you get the Fastest Streetcar mag. check out the part combination. For cranks, I see a large number of Scat listed also Racepages ( Ford guys) they also use a lot of Scat crankshaft. I currently have a Scat billet 4.125 for a forced induction motor, which will be built in about 2 years.I am shooting for around 2000 - 2200 HP.

Yedi