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I'm gonna hone my cylinder walls next weekend. I can rent the Autozone 3-stone expandable type hone, is this OK?
Do you use a lube or fluid on the stones?
Do you just cross hatch until all slick spots are removed?
Thanks for the help!
The stone type hones are not as forgiving as the ball type. I assume you have never done this type of work? If not...you may want to take the block in and have it professionally done. It won't cost much compared to messing up a good block. If you intend to do the work yourself check your local library for books on rebuilding small-block Chev's, or go to local bookstore and buy one.
I hope you have the engine out of the car? If not you are asking for trouble when it comes time to clean the block for assembly. When using a ball type hone I use motor oil to lubricate. Different oil weight can make the hone remove more or less metal when spinning the hone in the cylinders. Also, the speed at which you move the hone up and down the cylinders can and will determine what type of a cross hatch pattern you will end up with.
If you are going to do this yourself check with friends and see if anyone has an old engine laying around...lawn mower, junk motor...anything that you don't care if you mess up to use for practice.
The desired finish of the cylinder walls is dependent on the type of ring surface being used; cast iron, chrome, plasma, moly, etc. The stone, stone pressure, lubricant, hone motor speed, all go into achieving the ideal cylinder wall finish for your rings and usage.
LARRY Fuel oil is excellent for a lube. Remember the object is to bust the glaze you want the hone to get some bite motor oil would make it more difficult to remove the metal and be costly.
Machine shops have a tank on the hone machine and it sprays a constant stream of fuel oil or a light cutting oil on the stone.
If you are doing it in the car then you cn do it but if the engine is out take it to a shop that has a Suden honing machine and get a far better job than you can do with the hand hone.
I'd run that block by a trusted machine shop, for the minimum of an expert opinion. Depending on the rings being used, some low mileage engines, such as yours, are best left untouched.
Well I did my first home made hone 3 years ago. The rings sealed w/o a problem and the engine hasn't been taking oil since. I used the 3 stones hooked to a power drill. I also used engine oil for lubricant. Maybe I got lucky.
Well I did my first home made hone 3 years ago. The rings sealed w/o a problem and the engine hasn't been taking oil since. I used the 3 stones hooked to a power drill. I also used engine oil for lubricant. Maybe I got lucky.
Well he honing was pretty easy, but I ended up with one fine scratch that was long enough to span both of the top sets of rings.
So I took it down to the local engine shop and had them bore it .010 over to 4.165 and hone and deck it to .005 in the hole,