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I would like to do a 2 or 3 year project build on a 396. Would it be cheaper to find a bare 396 block or can I have a 350 bored to 396 cheaper? Is it possible? thanks
I'm not aware of where you can find a "bare 396" small block. I have a 396 sbc stroker crank(for a two piece seal), connecting rods and pistons. It's very difficult to find much info on 396 small blocks, but the September Chevy High Performance has one built by Larry's Performance. The heads that they use are kind of crappy-trust me I have a set. They are the "Pro Comp" heads. They require ALOT of work just to even make them look decent. Anyway, there are few manufacturers that make the cranks. I got a forged Eagle crank. The pistons I bought are Keith Black hypers made for a 6.2" connecting rod 350. The deck heights are the same, so I figure they will work. I do not have a block yet, but I imagine the clearancing gets kinda hairy. There are a few people here that have done a 396, so you may get some help.
I guess I got off on a tangent....The 396 is a 350 block bored .030" with a 3.875" stroke crank.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by 79VetteMike
The 396 is a 350 block bored .030" with a 3.875" stroke crank.
I built a 388 stroker recently with an idea that CFI-EFI gave to me. I used a 3.80" stroke crank and pistons with a comp. height for a 3.75" stroke. This virtually zero decks the pistons w/o any block cutting. With an .039" gasket I ended up with a very nice .041" quench. Some block clearancing was needed but it's not difficult, I did it myself.
There is no such thing as a SBC, 396 bare block. A 396 is a stroked 383, which is a stroked 350, both of which use a stock 350 block, bored .030" over.
I'd like to see 450-475 streetable hp. Is it do-able in a stroked 383 LT1?
Anything is "do-able" It's a matter of how "streetable". Get some good heads and a good roller cam and you are well on your way. Tuning is a big part of the equation-as important as the matching up of the parts that will work well together. Anything up to about 425hp/470ft/lbs is fairly easy with standard store bought parts in a stroker. Anything much higher requires knowing more of what you are doing. Are you using EFI or a carb? What do you have to start with?
Last edited by 79VetteMike; Jul 18, 2006 at 10:22 PM.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by sonomacrew01
I'd like to see 450-475 streetable hp. Is it do-able in a stroked 383 LT1?
Very do-able. My previous engine, a Hotcammed, modified stock heads, 350 LT1 made 410-430 FWHP depending on whose computations you believe on converting RWHP to flyheel HP. Needless to say, when dyno-tuned, I expect the 388 to do significantly better. It's basically the same engine with 38 more cubic inches and a tight quench area.
There's an engine shop that has been featured in GM High Tech performance by the name of Golen Engine Service, or something like that. They're located in the New England area. They build 396 LT-1 "crate motors".
Just purchased my 383 short block from Golen - great service and a terrific looking piece of work. Engine is completely built, and hanging from an engine stand in the garage....waiting for installation in the Vette tomorrow. I'll let you know how she runs once we build a fire in her.