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More useful at the drag strip, especially on hot days. The quick runs coupled with shutting off the engine after getting back in line tended to cause vapor lock. A cold can helped lower the fuel temp & kept it from trying to boil. Practically useless on the street, unless you stop every 5 miles for ice. Guess you could reroute your AC evaporator to a cold can, but how often do you attempt to race with your AC on?
I can't imagine it as being of much advantage. Maybe in a class car where the modifications are limited and you have to run as fast or faster than someone with the same limitations. A cool can won't help with vapor lock, at all. When a fuel pump up front pulls on the fuel, the pressure in the fuel line decreases. With warm fuel, the lower pressure allows the fuel to vaporize in the line and cause a blockage, an air lock, so to speak. A cool can is located down stream from the problem area and therefore has no effect.
The most simple setup for a dual feed type carb is plumb in a tiny tank return line off the fuel log. It will end all vapor lock and no more hot gas going to the carb. To help a friends problem we actually used a holley 74 jet on the return line to restrict the return flow to maintain @7 psi in the log to the holley bowls.
Before we did this the fuel log would get so hot that you could not touch it even when the motor was running. He would even get fuel boiling out the bowl vents. We also added a 1/2 inch wood thermal carb spacer. Afterwards the fuel was cool to the touch.
The most simple setup for a dual feed type carb is plumb in a tiny tank return line off the fuel log. It will end all vapor lock and no more hot gas going to the carb. To help a friends problem we actually used a holley 74 jet on the return line to restrict the return flow to maintain @7 psi in the log to the holley bowls.
Before we did this the fuel log would get so hot that you could not touch it even when the motor was running. He would even get fuel boiling out the bowl vents. We also added a 1/2 inch wood thermal carb spacer. Afterwards the fuel was cool to the touch.
I just looked at a few at P.A.W, today and thought I could make one better that wasnt as darned big.
I noticed Jegs sells a 3 port fuel valve....Does the fuel typically get warmer with an electric or manual F.P. (carbed app.) ?
Ive always used 6lb Carter mech pumps (ne regulator), but on the last motor I suspect it was running out of fuel up top. Not sure what to put on there now to be honest, have to make a decision this week.
never tried the wood spacer, will be running a 1" tall plastic one to increase the plenum area a bit.
I use a mech pump from NAPA It's a stock type with the tank return. My fuel pressure gauge always reads about 5 psi. I have never run out of fuel in my 750 speed Demon. I have also had my foot on the floor for 28 seconds or so during one mile drag racing. That is from a dead stop to over 160 mph.
I just have 3/8th SS braided A/N lines up to my fuel filter. My fuel log is big diameter. I also use the titanium .150 or something needle and seats for methanol or fuels that require big flow.
That reminds me of a good point. Guys install 1/2 inch lines all the way from the tank and all this super big stuff and then when it comes down to the fuel bowl they have a .080 needle and seat restriction. Your not going to flow any more than the smallest point.