Is $1400 a good price for these parts? I hope so because thats what I just paid. I yanked out the 406 in favor of a all forged Bowtie 383. Now I just need to find the perfect cam. Any recomendations along with P/N's and specs are welcomed.

Main Bearings
Clevite MS-909H

Rod Bearings
Clevite CB-663H

Ring Set
JE J100F8-4030-5

Rods 6.0"
Eagle H-Beams p/n CRS6000B3D
Weight=640grms
Bolts ARP 8740
Torque 63ft. lbs w/moly

Crank Shaft
Eagle 4340 1 piece seal
P/N 435337505700

Pistons
SRP P/N 138093 http://www.srp.com
Flat Top
4.030
6.0" Rod
Comp Height 1.125
Weigght 410 grms
Top Ring 1/16
2ND Ring 1/16
Oil Ring 3/16 + spacer
Pins 927-2750-15-51S
Locks 927-042-CS
Rails RA4030

 

Are you saying that you have a bowtie block? The big question are you limited to CA sniffer and visual?

 

I have basically the same in a CNC bowtie block......your cam choice rather depends on your heads,inlet and exhausts and,most importantly,what you want to do with it.... I opted for a fairly mild flat tappet cam as i want 400+rwtq from about 2000 rpm.........much more street friendly than some screamer with 500+hp at 6500 revs..john :chevy

 

Yup, it's a small bore 2 bolt though. I may invest and have it machined to a 4 bolt if deemed required.

My heads are http://www.megapathdsl.net/~mimsk/Pi.../flowsheet.jpg and there going back to be ported on the exhaust side.

What about compression! Is 11.0 to high for pump gas? This guy at Comp Cams said I was crazy to try and 11.0 on pump gas. I thought it was fine as long as you were injected and had aluminum heads.

KM :confused:

 

If you are going for big power numbers,4 bolt with steel caps is best.....the basic advice is always max 9.5 comp on street gas,for a street driven car....john :chevy

 

You can street around at 11.0, but only on 93 octane (or so I've read). Good luck on your build! :cheers:

 

I am running a 383 in my '81 Vette, daily driven on pump 93 octane. I am running 10.2 compression with the setup I have. The block is a two bolt main 350 and I used the Summit cast crank. My cam is a Lunati off the shelf for a computer controlled fuel inj. engine. I am very happy with the response this engine delivers and I get approx. 24 mpg on the highway. Check out my homepage on my sig.

 

IMO and some super mechanic might say that I'm wrong. But I would not use H bearings unless I had a killer motor. They came with the kit I bought.

If you hold a H bearing and a P bearing side by side the first thing you will notice is the width. H stands for Hard Race Bearing. Race motors run block oil restrictors and high pressure oil pumps. H bearing have a narrow width to leak out oil faster and keep total square inches of bearing surface down.

I would not run them unless your crank has large radiized throws requiring them. Any machine shop can measure this and see if a P type will work.

Just for future reference - Bowtie Blocks with the Chevy emblem on the side are over the counter racing blocks with many special features. The block alone is @ $1700 and requires hours of machine work. They are not to be confused with the millions of common 2 bolt blocks.

 

in addtion to the other questions, what are you using for an intake??

 

gkull,I was surprised to see that there was a Bowtie Block as a 2 bolt.....it may be that 88 406 has been misled......I know my Bowtie CNC bare block cost over $2000.....and they are usa$,not our mighty peso like $ here in Australia......john :chevy

 

My intake is going to be my trusted MiniRam. The block P/N is 10051182. It hasn't showed up yet so I'll have to wait and see what it is when it gets here.

KM