Need burnout power
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Lufkin Texas
Need burnout power
Just installed a fresh 60 over 350 10-1 comp ratio 64cc vortec heads, edelbrock performer intake, holley 600 carb, comp XE268H cams and comp lifters and roller tip rockers. Hooker headers and sidepipes, auto transmission with 3:55 rear end. Car does not do a burnout as I expected any suggestions?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 4
From: Texas
If you want to burn out with what you have now get a trans brake
and a Street/Strip Converter. Trans-brake will let you rev like a
manual and launch hard.... converter will let your actual RPM at lock up be a little higher....
and a Street/Strip Converter. Trans-brake will let you rev like a
manual and launch hard.... converter will let your actual RPM at lock up be a little higher....
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by KyleDallas
If you want to burn out with what you have now get a trans brake
and a Street/Strip Converter. Trans-brake will let you rev like a
manual and launch hard.... converter will let your actual RPM at lock up be a little higher....
and a Street/Strip Converter. Trans-brake will let you rev like a
manual and launch hard.... converter will let your actual RPM at lock up be a little higher....
The trans brake will only help the engine rev as high as the converter will allow. And since the trans brake locks up the transmission, there is no drive train motion including NO burn out while using the trans brake. Except that it doesn't do what the OP wants to do, it's a great idea. RACE ON!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
You need a line-lock, with which you press hard on the brake pedal, push and hold the button (best located on the shifter), release the pedal and step on the gas. The line-lock maintains brake pressure on the front calipers, until you release the button, while the rears are free. Hurst has one they call Roll Control. Here's a link...
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/catalo...RollContrl.pdf
On slicks, be aggressive and go quickly to second gear, holding mid-revs for quicker results without as much wear and tear. But, don't roll out of the water while hard on the gas with the stock drivetrain, or you may hear some expensive noises. Rather, pull forward and then do one or two short "dry-burnouts" without the lock on to clean the tires and test traction.
On street tires, its easy to over do the burnout, as true street tires (not DOT legal racers) don't necessarily respond well to high temperatures. It's more important that they be clean than too hot.
btw... that 600cfm carb is too small, but I'd keep the vacuum 2nds with that auto...
Hope that helps you get hooked up!
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/catalo...RollContrl.pdf
On slicks, be aggressive and go quickly to second gear, holding mid-revs for quicker results without as much wear and tear. But, don't roll out of the water while hard on the gas with the stock drivetrain, or you may hear some expensive noises. Rather, pull forward and then do one or two short "dry-burnouts" without the lock on to clean the tires and test traction.
On street tires, its easy to over do the burnout, as true street tires (not DOT legal racers) don't necessarily respond well to high temperatures. It's more important that they be clean than too hot.
btw... that 600cfm carb is too small, but I'd keep the vacuum 2nds with that auto...
Hope that helps you get hooked up!
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; May 14, 2007 at 12:01 AM.
