machine shop costs
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,107
Likes: 0
From: RI
machine shop costs
Looking to do a long term engine build for a 396 LT1 and eventually do either a twin turbo or a supercharger setup to achieve 600-700 fwhp. Not sure how long it will take but I want to build it piece by piece.
Question is, what will a machine shop cost to bore and stroke a 350 to a 396? Second, what about drilling and tapping a 2 bolt main for a 4 bolt? Or would it be cheaper to buy a 396 shortblock?
Question is, what will a machine shop cost to bore and stroke a 350 to a 396? Second, what about drilling and tapping a 2 bolt main for a 4 bolt? Or would it be cheaper to buy a 396 shortblock?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,048
Likes: 5
From: "cutesy" TN
Shop around for parts first, to give you an idea about the amount you will have to spend.
Buy them as you can afford.
After you have all the parts, take it to a machine shop.
Look here for parts:
http://www.competitionproducts.com/
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/default.asp
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/
Also Summit and Jegs.
Buy them as you can afford.
After you have all the parts, take it to a machine shop.
Look here for parts:
http://www.competitionproducts.com/
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/default.asp
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/
Also Summit and Jegs.
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
Likes: 71
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
My shop gets around $300 for fitting splayed caps and the necessary line boring. Cylinder boring isn't too much, generally a basic charge with so much per additional hole. The block will need clearanced, I did that myself so have no idea what a shop would charge. You'll probably want them to hot tank it and eventually final clean it. Also there's cam bearing installation, if you don't want to do that yourself. But the tool for that can be bought for about what it will cost to have it done one time and it's not difficult. Consider too if you're going to put a substantial investment into a block (and before you do) you might want to have it magnafluxed, sonic tested and pressure checked. Other things you can likely do yourself are deburring, optimizing oil return paths, etc.
Talk to a performance machine shop recommended by those in your area. Tell them what you're planning and they can probably give you a pretty accurate figure on what total block-prep will run, as well as advise you on your specific needs.
There's nothing wrong with buying a well done short block assembly. But building it yourself is likely the only way to get exactly what you want and the satisfaction is immense.
Talk to a performance machine shop recommended by those in your area. Tell them what you're planning and they can probably give you a pretty accurate figure on what total block-prep will run, as well as advise you on your specific needs.
There's nothing wrong with buying a well done short block assembly. But building it yourself is likely the only way to get exactly what you want and the satisfaction is immense.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
Justin,
If your looking for just a block to start your project. There is a company in Texas that will sell you a seasoned 2 bolt block completely machined with splayed 4 bolt billet caps, line bored and honed, machine strokered for up to a 4.00 crank, cyl. bored and honed for about 1200.00 bucks to your door if interested. I purchased one last year for a 396 build and was very happy with the machine work. Will buy from them again in the future .PM me if you want more info. Wasn't sure if i could mention their name on the forum.
Rick
If your looking for just a block to start your project. There is a company in Texas that will sell you a seasoned 2 bolt block completely machined with splayed 4 bolt billet caps, line bored and honed, machine strokered for up to a 4.00 crank, cyl. bored and honed for about 1200.00 bucks to your door if interested. I purchased one last year for a 396 build and was very happy with the machine work. Will buy from them again in the future .PM me if you want more info. Wasn't sure if i could mention their name on the forum.
Rick
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
We machine alot of 010 blocks for splayed caps for our enigne shop and other engine shops in the U.S. and our best block we only rate at 600 horse and on those blocks we install a front billet cap and strap the rear main cap for more reliability.
A good Dart block all machined runs about 2395.00 to your door and with the bigger bore there is more room for bigger cubic inch.
A good Dart block all machined runs about 2395.00 to your door and with the bigger bore there is more room for bigger cubic inch.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
We machine alot of 010 blocks for splayed caps for our enigne shop and other engine shops in the U.S. and our best block we only rate at 600 horse and on those blocks we install a front billet cap and strap the rear main cap for more reliability.
A good Dart block all machined runs about 2395.00 to your door and with the bigger bore there is more room for bigger cubic inch.
A good Dart block all machined runs about 2395.00 to your door and with the bigger bore there is more room for bigger cubic inch.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
No Dart does not make an LTX block but I do believe that there block would be in line with the LT1 block as the first post said LT1
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
This being said, an LT1 block is completely different from a Gen1 SBC block and not interchangeable. The coolant passages are different, as is the water pump mount. However, you CAN use any crankshaft for a 1-piece SBC (as long as it clears), as well as rods, pistons, etc.
I've spoken with Dart on a number of occasions regarding an aftermarket block for the LT1 platform, and every time they've said the same thing... it's a dead market and not cost-effective to tool up for. They won't even consider making cylinder heads for the LTx platform either. There are NO aftermarket options for an LT1 block...none. You need to find a good OEM core to work with.
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Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 12,772
Likes: 17
From: Indianapolis IN
From a recent bill last year for a new 406 block
Deck Block $35
Bore Cylinders .030" $100
TQ Plate Hone $60
Install Cam bearings $35
Deck to .005" $100
Align Hone mains $125
File Fit Rings $45
Balance rotating assy $225
Assemble Short block $125
Polish Crank $25
Deck Block $35
Bore Cylinders .030" $100
TQ Plate Hone $60
Install Cam bearings $35
Deck to .005" $100
Align Hone mains $125
File Fit Rings $45
Balance rotating assy $225
Assemble Short block $125
Polish Crank $25
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
LTx refers to LT1/LT4 (substitute a 1 or 4 for the x), but there's no fundamental difference between the LT1 and LT4 on the engine block level... basically the engine top end is different and the balancer/flywheels are different from the LT1.
This being said, an LT1 block is completely different from a Gen1 SBC block and not interchangeable. The coolant passages are different, as is the water pump mount. However, you CAN use any crankshaft for a 1-piece SBC (as long as it clears), as well as rods, pistons, etc.
I've spoken with Dart on a number of occasions regarding an aftermarket block for the LT1 platform, and every time they've said the same thing... it's a dead market and not cost-effective to tool up for. They won't even consider making cylinder heads for the LTx platform either. There are NO aftermarket options for an LT1 block...none. You need to find a good OEM core to work with.
This being said, an LT1 block is completely different from a Gen1 SBC block and not interchangeable. The coolant passages are different, as is the water pump mount. However, you CAN use any crankshaft for a 1-piece SBC (as long as it clears), as well as rods, pistons, etc.
I've spoken with Dart on a number of occasions regarding an aftermarket block for the LT1 platform, and every time they've said the same thing... it's a dead market and not cost-effective to tool up for. They won't even consider making cylinder heads for the LTx platform either. There are NO aftermarket options for an LT1 block...none. You need to find a good OEM core to work with.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
I can believe you on the sonic testing... hard to find a decent block. .030 is the max I'd go on an LTx block personally.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,706
Likes: 485
From: Everett WA
C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
As you're already in the New England (I grew up in Hartford) area why not contact Chad at Golen in NH www.golenengineservice.com they have a very good rep and they do machine shop work as well and you should be able to get a good idea of what you want to accomplish will cost. Heck he even publishes prices for 396 short and long block assemblies
Last edited by Mr. Peabody; Jun 28, 2007 at 02:37 AM.
One gear at a time
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 5,232
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CI 8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09
These pics are from an early Gen I, but will give you an idea of the clearancing needed to fit a 3.85" stroke and 6.0" rods. I don't know how much material the Gen II engines have in the pan rail area.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 2
From: Castro Valley Calif.
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
What kind of rods are those Wes? I didn't have to clearance any pan rail with my SCAT 6" rods and a 3.875 stroke. I did need a little cylinder work in a couple places to clear the crank though......
One gear at a time
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 24
CI 8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09
Caboboy, they are Manley 6.00" SJrods. The block is a 1962 #870 327 block.
BTW, I had to trim the dipstick guide down, because it hit the pan... due to the main cap pushing it out.
I installed the engine yesterday and hope to run it at the vintage drags at LACR on 7/21, as part of the Rat Fink Party. www.ratfinkparty.com www.LACR.net
BTW, I had to trim the dipstick guide down, because it hit the pan... due to the main cap pushing it out.
I installed the engine yesterday and hope to run it at the vintage drags at LACR on 7/21, as part of the Rat Fink Party. www.ratfinkparty.com www.LACR.net
Last edited by Uesu; Jul 17, 2007 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Typed SL rods instead of SJ (small journal)
