Is your new block really clean?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Is your new block really clean?
I posted something similar in the C4 Tech section, but I felt it should also go here.
I am building a ZZ4 short block that came assembled with pistons, rods and crank. I pulled all these out to have it balanced. More information on the balance at a later date.
We I built my first 350 years ago, the machine shop told that even though the cylinder walls looked clean, to take toilet paper and wet it down with ATF and keep doing so until the TP was no longer black or gray. Well I did that with my brand new ZZ4 short block after I pulled the pistons. Black!! I didn't take pictures, but should have. :o
I got to thinking today that the lifter holes were probably in the same condition as the cylinder walls. Well this time I have a picture of the results! Here is a picture of a single wipe of the interior of the lifter holes with TP and ATF.
I threw a couple away when I first started and then kept the rest for the picture. The one piece that is horizontal is the final cleaning results on one hole.
And this is a brand new GM short block! And you thought it was clean.
I am building a ZZ4 short block that came assembled with pistons, rods and crank. I pulled all these out to have it balanced. More information on the balance at a later date.
We I built my first 350 years ago, the machine shop told that even though the cylinder walls looked clean, to take toilet paper and wet it down with ATF and keep doing so until the TP was no longer black or gray. Well I did that with my brand new ZZ4 short block after I pulled the pistons. Black!! I didn't take pictures, but should have. :o
I got to thinking today that the lifter holes were probably in the same condition as the cylinder walls. Well this time I have a picture of the results! Here is a picture of a single wipe of the interior of the lifter holes with TP and ATF.
I threw a couple away when I first started and then kept the rest for the picture. The one piece that is horizontal is the final cleaning results on one hole.And this is a brand new GM short block! And you thought it was clean.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 755
Likes: 32
From: Roswell Georgia
It's Not Unusual. In Fact It's Normal.
What you are removing is the grit left over from the honing process that is embedded in the block - not unusual for a mass-produced block. Taking the time to remove this material before the engine is fired up is just another step in the custom engine building process. BTW, David Vizard recommends removing the grit from the piston bores in the following manner:
"If you want to reduce piston and ring friction and the time it takes to break-in the engine, try this for a torque-enhancing move. Use a Scotchbrite pan-scouring pad to polish the rings until they feel smooth and slippery to the touch. Next, use a pad on the bores in a vertical motion, and use Gunk engine cleaner as a lube. Continue the vertical polishing until the bores feel really slippery. This action takes out a minimal amount of metal and removes or smooths the microscopic tears left behind by the honing process. In effect, this process is similar to a fine plateau honing job."
"If you want to reduce piston and ring friction and the time it takes to break-in the engine, try this for a torque-enhancing move. Use a Scotchbrite pan-scouring pad to polish the rings until they feel smooth and slippery to the touch. Next, use a pad on the bores in a vertical motion, and use Gunk engine cleaner as a lube. Continue the vertical polishing until the bores feel really slippery. This action takes out a minimal amount of metal and removes or smooths the microscopic tears left behind by the honing process. In effect, this process is similar to a fine plateau honing job."
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Spic and Span.
Hot water.
Spic and Span.
Soft bristle brush.
Scrub it until u can't see anything on a clean white cloth wipe.
Then protect it with ATF.
Hope this helps ya,
cardo0
Spic and Span.
Soft bristle brush.
Scrub it until u can't see anything on a clean white cloth wipe.
Then protect it with ATF.
Hope this helps ya,
cardo0
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,062
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Nothing to worry about providing there arent any metal chips in there. Any type of dust cast iron related will be black.
Recently flushed out the water jackets on a Dart block and was shocked at how much metal shavings and large shards of metal I got out of there from the machine punching out the freeze plug holes.
Never assume its all clean, always double check EVERYTHING.
Recently flushed out the water jackets on a Dart block and was shocked at how much metal shavings and large shards of metal I got out of there from the machine punching out the freeze plug holes.
Never assume its all clean, always double check EVERYTHING.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Not assembly lube. I ran a clean finger around the hole first and where was not sign of color, just a light oil. When I pulled the thing apart for balancing, I never found any sign of assembly lube, just oil.
