Ok, am seeking advice prior to purchasing all the goodies.

I have a camaro LT1 block,a paxton sn92 supercharger, and ported & polished heads, I need to order everything else.

Block
Manley splayed main caps

Rotating assembly
Eagle or scat 4340 forged crank 1piece (prefer knife edged, but can't find a source) internally balanced for 6 inch rods
6 inch oliver billet rods
8.5cr dished SRP/JE pistons

Heads
Ferrea 2.0in, 1.56ex valves (not sure whether to choose their superflow, competition plus, or 6000 series)
not sure which valve guides. retainers or springs to use. Any recommended brand?


Cam
looking at something around the CC305, but am also contemplating a solid roller cam solution, to provide a little more RPM. Any comments?

1.6 rocker arms

Purchased a oil cooler for the paxton, am making a customer oil resevoir for it. Have a diesel truck turbo intercooler am planning on adding to the frey to cool the intake air.

I think 50lbs injectors will be necessary, but need to find a low impedence ones that will work with stock 97 camaro ECM. Also looking at a fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure as supercharger pressure builds.

Any comments on this setup?

Any recommended place to purchase this stuff?

Thanks for the help. I always find it best to run by a hundred folk before making another dumb decision.



[Modified by Mr Y Car, 5:31 PM 1/29/2002]

 

Make sure the splay's are done at the correct angle for a LT1 - it's not the same as SBC (well you can, but it will come very close to the water jackets if it doesn't hit).



Hard to beat for the price, we have used/use the eagle cranks and they generally offer an excellent value and strength.



No way do you need a billet rod - that's just over-kill. If you want oliver's just go with the normal forged ones - the eagle H-beams are also an excellent high-strength pieces for a little less money.




That's pretty low there for compression - you think you can get 15+ lbs of boost out of that compressor on a 383? What kind of boost levels are you shooting for? With that compressor I would be thinking more like 9:1 at the lowest.



We use the Ferrea 6000 series. Valve guides - the stockers should be fine, though you could have some brass guides pressed in if you wanted. You may want to consider going +0.100" on the valve depending on the camshaft and the rest of the geometry

Springs are going to depend on the camshaft used. If you go with a decent solid roller I would look into a quality pacalloy spring. Retainers - go as light as possible - titanium for sure.




Solid roller can definitely provide you with a better idle quality with more power and more or less rpm (up to you). It just depends if you are willing to pay for the lifters and springs (they are a little more expensive), as well as set your lash every other oil change.



Make sure you go with 7/16ths studs.




You can get MSD 50's in high impedance design, or for slightly less some SVO 42's. Don't forget a fuel system to support it (in tank pickup and aeromotive inline pump is about the "standard" for a good system at your level. )
If you want to run low impedance injectors we can source you a converter unit, though at the 50 #/hr level I would just stick with the MSD's or SVO's. You will burn out your stock computer if you simply hook up peak and hold injectors to it (in place of the stock saturation type).



See below ;)

I also didn't see any mention of tuning - this is going to be critical on a forced induction application - what are your plans as far as that is concerned?



[Modified by ChrisB, 5:50 PM 1/29/2002]

 

Thanks for the answers chris. Been meaning to call speedemon motorsports after work, but usually get home after business hours.

On the boost am starting at playing with 6lbs, then working way up to 10lbs, not sure this compresser can handle it, if not will upgrade. Am not adverse to 9:1 compression ratio.

Haven't had much experience with eagle. Was looking at the oliver because of my racing expereince with them.

The tunring was going to be done by LT1 edit, with a wideband o2 sensor connected to a guage to jusdge o2 readings. Tuning to be done on a dyno by myself or some of the local detroit speedshops. If the ECM can't handle it was going to upgrade to the new DFi unit. I have tons of DFI programming experience. Haven't played with LT1 edit yet.

Have a duel in tank fuel pump system at moment running an two aftermarket bosch racing fuel pumps, don't have the numbers on them at the moment.

Thanks again.
Mike




[Modified by Mr Y Car, 5:15 AM 1/30/2002]

 

Hmm, this is going on a LT5? (I was assuming a LTx/SBC based motor). I don't think you will be looking at a 383 then generally - but before we get into that I just wanted to make sure.


Chris

 

oops LT1 edit, not LT5

 

Okay, what I posted above is still relevant then!



At 10lbs of boost, especially intercooled, I would be looking at 9.4:1 compression probably, but 9:1 would be the absolute minimum.



Oliver makes good rods, no question - But at your hp level I think they would be overkill - even the eagle h-beams work up to 900 or so hp.

 

Chris,
Does speed demon motorsports sell superchargers?

Would you be willing to put something together?

 

Yes, we sell superchargers, kits, intercoolers (spearco, etc.) and related accesories.

Send me an email and let me know what you are looking for - if we for some reason don't carry it I can at least give you a few good leads.

 

Thanks for the info Chris. What camshaft would you recommend with this combo? Assuming a solid roller? The car will see mainly car cruise and drag race use. Am trying to get around 600hp. Do you think this is possible?

Mike

 

Do you happen to have a compressor map for the Paxton blower? Or if not know how it compares to say an S-trim in CFM/effeciency? I honestly have never worked with that particular blower (only paxton I have experience with is the Novi) - and that is going to be a prime factor.

Do you have flow numbers for your heads?

Were you thining solid roller or hydraulic?

And finally, is that 600fwhp or 600rwhp?

 

flow numbers for the heads 296,

There will be final work done to the heads when the I order my valves.


solid roller cam

According to JR Granetelli (Who I purchased the supercharger directly from in 1992) this system when equipped with a proper oil cooler can maintain a 14lb boost, the limiting factor he said was heat and belt slippage. At that time he recommended the big ford intercooler for sustained boost and a heavier version of the oil cooler that he had. My oil cooler uses his pump and a pint resevoir and a transmission cooler for oil cooling.

600 crank would be fine, would prefer rw, but if the car sacrificed too much drivability to achieve that goal then I'll stick with the crank.

If I don't buy the LT5 engine I was just offered, I'll be ordering stuff this weekend. Sounds like we are getting close to some real stuff to order.

Thanks

 

Your exhaust valves are too small; remember the blower will stuff everything in, but the exhaust needs all the help it can get. Think 1.625" and you may as well go 2.02" on the intake.

I wouldn't get an off-the-shelf CC305; you need a blower/turbo cam. LSA in the 114-115 degree range. CC makes several of these in a split pattern: 218/230 thru 230/244 or so.

I agree about the CR recommendations- get it up in the 9.0-9.4 range unless your running an unholy amount of boost. Remember before the boost hits at 3000rpm you're running on motor only!

 

My head porter indicated that there was physical limitations of the LT1 heads that prevent taking their valves much larger. What is the safe amount t o hog the intake and exhaust valve out to?

Thanks

 

I'm looking to build an engine combo VERY similar to what is being discussed here. I will be bolting on a t-trim to the 383 LT4 that i'm having built. I was also wondering about CR and cam selection. I was gonna go with a solid roller cam in the 240 duration range with a 114 lsa. I'm also going with AFR LT4 heads (2.02 intake/1.6 exhaust). I was gonna run about 8.7-9:1 cr because I was looking to run about 15lbs of boost. Any sugestions?

 

We have a solid 236/248 with 0.608" lift intake/exhaust ground on a 114+3 that I would probably reccomend for your setup.



If you can get the 14lbs of boost mentioned above into your setup I see no problem with 600rwhp - it will be getting close to the race gas vs. pump gas question in the tune though.



He would have to trade off intake valve size to fit a 1.625 exhaust valve in there - probably have to run something like a dodge setup with 1.9/1.625 valves to get it to fit, and I don't think that's a good idea. (remember, this is a LT1 casting)
I would stick wiith the valve he has.

 

That sounds about right - just be careful not to go crazy on the lift (easy to do with a solid). I would also suggest a good set of pacalloy springs.




Are you going with a cogged or serpentine setup? Do you want the compression ratio low enough to max out the t-trim, or optimized for your above setup. I would not go less than 9:1 up until around 17 or so lbs of boost assuming you have a good intercooler.

 

ChrisB,

How do the Pacalloy springs compare to a tool steel spring? I am running Manley 22440 springs which are tool steel, 1.550" OD/ .720" ID, 250lb@1.850"/ 680lb@1.150" and coil bind at 1.050. Just trying to compare since I have not read anything about the Pacalloy springs. Is one more durable than the other? Cheaper? Better?

 

You mentioned earlier that an LT1 needed special treatment for a splayed main, does it use a different main, need a machinist to stop before hitting water jackets, or do you add a sealant on the bolt threads to prevent leakage?

Also does Speedemon have all these nicw go fast goodies that you are mentioning?

I just decided not to buy another LT5 and make a sbc go fast.

Thanks for the help. Am glad that I did these public postings, seems that a few are reading them. Was going to email privately about all of this info.

Mike

 

Vette92:
The pacalloy's cost a little more but generally will give you much better spring life. Have you actually measured your spring pressures as set up on the head? They sound a bit excessive - not going to hurt anything, etc. I would just think you might see a bit extra valve seat wear, etc. With your cam I would be looking for more like 210/550 actual.



We generally do the splays at a slightly shallower angle.

We carry the parts I mentioned above - if you have any specific questions you can send me an email @ tech@speeddemonmotorsports.com

Glad I could help!

 

No I have not measured actuals. I do not have the equipment to do so. My seat pressures will be a little less on the open side since 680 is at .700" and my cam lift is only in the .620" range. Probably puts me closer to the 575-600 mark open pressures.

I may look more into the Pacalloy for the next set of springs next year after these have served their duty.

Thanks,

Chris