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Copper is a very short term head gasket material. big buck MLS thin gaskets........... IMO are only used for fully studded aftermarket blocks without water on the bolts or studs or aluminum heads and iron blocks
i don't care about coolant seepage. I can put Bars Leak in to stop that...Titan has a copper gasket that requires no machining to block...Which would be more robust to a blowout between cylinders?
Be very wary about any coolant seepage because cranking over an engine with a hydrolocked cylinder will definitely pretzel a connecting rod and/or crack a piston. Bars Leak is a bandaid approach to the problem of seepage and best done as a last resort before you sell the car.
What type of engine are you building - street, race, or street & strip? Copper gaskets are at best another bandaid approach to decreasing quench volume and raising the static compression ratio for a street engine. You'll need a good sealant, a reasonable finish on both the block and heads to maintain the seal. (Even though some may claim soft copper gaskets will conform to any irregularity on the block or heads, I my experience that is true for a very short period of time especially is neither the heads nor the block has been trued.)
I like Fel-Pro MLS (multi-layered steel) gaskets over steel shim gaskets for street cars. Race cars can tolerate the steel shim gaskets since the block and heads have been trued six ways from Sunday. If you're going to use MLS gaskets on a high compression or blown engine, use studs instead of bolts to secure the heads to the blocks. Make sure your torque wrench is accurate and build up the requisite torque uniformly across each head.
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