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I"m building a new race motor for 1/8 mile drag racing.12.5.1 comp, rpm about 7700-8200 shift points would you build a SJ steel, 2 bolt or LJ steel 4 bolt mains, both cranks are stock chevy steel cranks.
Unless you're going to use aftermarket small journal rods from someone like Crower, I'd stay away from the two bolt, small journal build. Your shift points will break most stock rods from that era.
If you're planning on racing an 1/8 mile track, think about getting an aftermarket crank that has been lightened and cut for reduced windage. It will give you a faster spin up to redline that a stock crank which is needed for a short track.
Main reason to go large journal (besides the crank being stronger) is the fact that you can use a thick wall 327/350 LJ block. The 327 SJ blocks have thin cylinder walls as you probably already know.
Originally Posted by Biscayne327
I"m building a new race motor for 1/8 mile drag racing.12.5.1 comp, rpm about 7700-8200 shift points would you build a SJ steel, 2 bolt or LJ steel 4 bolt mains, both cranks are stock chevy steel cranks.
I"m building a new race motor for 1/8 mile drag racing.12.5.1 comp, rpm about 7700-8200 shift points would you build a SJ steel, 2 bolt or LJ steel 4 bolt mains, both cranks are stock chevy steel cranks.
I have to jump in on this post. I till this day love 327's. When I was a kid I built a 327 from a '63 Vett for my '67 Camaro. It was the stock production 870 block; 2 bolt mains with the stock small journal forged crank. I bored it out .060 to make it 339 CI. I used the stock rods with TRW 12.5 pistons. The cam was the off road solid 140 cam for the Z28 (GM). Induction was dual quad tunnel ram w/2X 600 CFM Holleys. I shifted this motor at 8K and kept my foot into it till the end of the run and the motor loved it. It never broke and I ran it for many years in my small home town. I would beat big blocks with the Camaro, always passing them in 3rd gear. I had a 4.56 gear with only 12 in. wide slicks and would always suffer a little because of wheel spin. If you can afford a lightweight Crower Crank, go for it. Keep the small journal size for the reduced surface area. These blocks/cranks are awesome. One of my favs. that I drive today is a '63 Conv. Corvette, 327 FI stock except for the LT-1 Solid cam. Shift this one all day at 7K.
These are actually fun to build. Have 2 here now but for pump-gas. We use the 350" SB pistons due to availability. Many more to choose from than the 327".
One of these builds will see the dyno when the customer decides?
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Have no issue with using the stock S/J (steel) crank and some H-beam rods. Nice setup even at the RPM's your mentioning? Just delivered a similar build, 302" SB (solid flat-tappet) with some 350" pistons. Tested on the dyno at 7000+, not a single issue!