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a 377 is generally a 400 block with a 350 crank...what is wrong with the engine in your car? what kind of budget and how much performance are you lookin for?
Just a spun rod bearing , but I will be pulling the motor in a month or so to fix it so I figured to spend some money on new heads cam and intake package.
Considering different combos and I thought you could put a 400 crank in a 350 and still use 5.7 rods, I'm pretty sure this makes a 377 too.
The "Classic" combination is a 400 (3.75" stroke) crank in a .030 over 350
(4.00" + .030" = 4.030 bore) which equals a "383".
A 400 crank in a standard 350 block (4.00" bore X 3.75" stroke) make
a "377".
A 350 (3.48" stroke) crank in a standard (4.125" bore) 400 block yeilds 372
cubic inches.
You can put the 400 crank, with turned down main journals (commonly
known as a 383 crank), in your 350 block with your 5.7" 350 rods, but you
will require "stroker" pistons with a shorter compression height. The
alternative is to use the 5.565" 400 rods. That will allow you to retain your
exisiting pistons.
To add to the mathmatical confusion, a .030" over 400 block (4.155" bore)
with the 350 crank makes a 377, also.
Your 377 is really the much touted "383" minus the .030" bore.
I wouldn't recommend using the 5.565" 400 rods. Why, when he has the 5.7" 350 rods? The longer the rods, the better. Call Summit Racing, Jegs, PAW, Speedomotive, or any of those outlets for help in determining the correct pistons to use with the 5.7 inch rods.
Please realize that your rod/stroke ratio will be a lot worse if you use 5.7" rods. Not only does that increase your side loading, and therefore your frictional losses, but it also makes for a lazier revving motor. But you'll be fine. 6 inch rods would be better, but 5.7 inch rods are better than 5.565" rods anyday. Have them shot peened.
The classic 377, using a 400 block and 350 crank is a good motor. If you use 6 inch rods on that, it'll rev like a 327. But an engine like that would almost beg for bigger cams than you could hope to pass emissions on.
If you're building a 350 block/400 crank, do the overbore. You'll most likely need to anyway to clean up the cylinder bores. You're buying new pistons anyway, so why not? Then you have a 383.
Unlike most of my posts, The above post expresses no oppinion, just fact.
Personally, (OPPINION), I agree with you, for most of the reasons you stated. I have a set of 6" "H" beam rods I was planning for use in my 406.
Depending on intended usage and budget constraints, the short rod engine has it's place. It isn't acceptable for MY usage, but how can one consider all the options, if he isn't aware of ALL the options? I was just trying to interject some facts on the cubic inch confusion and explain that a, crank only, would not make the cubic inch conversion. Just trying to help.
Does anybody know why small rod/stroke ratios are so frowned upon with the sb400 rod? Similar (or worse!) ratios are used all the time in very popular big block combos (496, 540, etc.) with no wear problems at all. Heck, nobody builds these hipo engines to run them for over 100k miles anyway.
I think the point is to use as long of a rod as possible, without pushing the ring package too far up on the piston. As an engines stroke gets longer the ability to use longer rods is more difficult, and compromises are in order. However, these large stroke/displacement engines make so much hp and torque, that the shorter rods are a worthwhile compromise. Also, they don't usually need to be revved as high. And like you said, most people don't expect to get 100k miles out of them anyways. :cheers:
No, its Bore(1/2 of bore) Raidus squared times pie(3.14~). Then times that by the stroke and then times that by 8 cylinders. To get Liters times cubic inches by 16.837~. :yesnod: