Another internal balance question?
They’re both “right” ... but assuming your local balancer does class A work ... local guy is more correct. Balancing with damper & flywheel is better & safer.
Think of tires ... they need balancing ... but the weights seldom if ever go in the same places ... tires are a VERY EXAGGERATED EXAMPLE.
Dampers/flywheels/flexplates balance points are more or less standardized. But there are variances between manufacturers, sizes, models, even from lot-to-lot within a specific mfg’s pn. The mail order guy is using HIS “standard” to do the balance job ... it’ll probably be close ... but probably not a perfect match to the balance point of YOUR damper & flywheel. Your local guy will use YOUR damper & flywheel to more closely attain that perfect balance. For best result, a class A job using YOUR parts is best.
BTW, I’d pre-assemble entire rotating assembly into block (LESS rings, wristpin locks, damper & flywheel) along with DEGREED cam-timing set BEFORE any balance is done. Also check valve-to-piston clearance. You’ll wanna know if there’s any part of that assembly that might need grinding/machining BEFORE you have it balanced ... in strokers there are often cam-to-rod clearance issues. Make certain the damper & flywheel you choose are correct & in good condition ... BEFORE you have it all balanced. Also, having a set of old "sacrificial" rod & main bearings are nice to have during the pre-assembly as they can get damaged ... save the good ones for the balance and final assembly. Also, have your local guy check that the bearings you use are appropriate for the radii of new crank's journals. Hope this helps.
[Modified by jackson, 1:57 AM 11/12/2002]
Anyways once again, thanks for all the tips. I I should start putting this all into action shortly.





