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rod and crankshaft advice

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Old Jan 18, 2003 | 07:29 PM
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From: fargo nd
Default rod and crankshaft advice

Eagle(4340)Scat(4340) or Callies(Dragon Slayer(4340))?? These are the three choice that I have come down to in making my decision. Does one have any advantage over the other than Scat seems to be a little less expensive.
Eagle, Scat, Callies(Dragon Slayer), or maybe Manley?? Are there any advantages to any one of these?? Also what is the difference between an I-Beam rod and an H-Beam Rod.
Also should mention that this will all be going into a bbc chevy. The stroke will be a 4.25 and rod length will be 6.385. Nothing has to be fancy or have a name brand just looking for good quality parts so that if this motor ever sees a shot of Nitrous that it wont scream in terror.. Thanks for any help given JOSH


[Modified by J. Swisher, 12:31 AM 1/19/2003]
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Old Jan 25, 2003 | 08:30 AM
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Default Re: rod and crankshaft advice (J. Swisher)

you pay for what you get ;)

if youre gonan use spray and wind this motor out.. go with the callies, and a good rod.
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Old Jan 25, 2003 | 10:55 AM
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Default Re: rod and crankshaft advice (J. Swisher)

I've never used Scat products myself, but I was over at Fast Times Motorworks a few months ago and they were working on Bob Curran's NMCA-NSCA engine. That engine has a Scat 4340 forged crank and he won the championship this year. From what I've been told, that team has a pretty good budget so if it didn't work they could have afforded something else. Those are 8000rpm, huge-nitrous racing engines...

I've got a billet 4340 Ultralight Crower crank, and besides the profiling and undercut throws, the Scat looked almost as nice. Very nice machining and profiling. It looked alot better than some of the budget Cola's and Callie's I've seen.
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Old Jan 25, 2003 | 12:05 PM
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Default Re: rod and crankshaft advice (Monty)

Monty,
I looked at a SCAT lightweight crank some time ago, nice workmanship like you said. However, this wasn't in the normal $350-700 budget racer range, it was more like $1,200! That takes it out of the budget category and puts it out there with Lunati, Callies, Crower, etc. I've heard good & bad about the overseas components, I even have some of them by default, but my first choice for an all out race motor would be,

buy American :flag

Dave
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Old Jan 25, 2003 | 12:12 PM
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Default Re: rod and crankshaft advice (new92racer)

I agree, I was just impressed with how well it compared to a $2500 crank, for alot less money.

They broke 2-3 camshafts this year, but the crank made it the whole season.
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Old Jan 25, 2003 | 12:32 PM
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From: Drag racing junkie Va.
Default Re: rod and crankshaft advice (Monty)

Compared to $2500 even $1200 is a deal!
2-3 broken cams in one year, I'd be looking for a new hobby :cry !
BTW, do you have the part number on the high temp anti-seize?


[Modified by new92racer, 12:34 PM 1/25/2003]
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Old Jan 25, 2003 | 02:41 PM
  #7  
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Default Re: rod and crankshaft advice (new92racer)

If you ain't breaking parts, you're ain't racing hard enough. One of the cams they broke took out a brand-new Dart CNC's Little M block with 50mm roller cam bearings. The entire engine block was lightened on the CNC machine, even all the external block surfaces, the engine mounts were machined off. A really beautiful block, destroyed the first time out.

Anyway, the part number for the Loctite Heavy Duty Anti-seize is 51605, that's the nickel based, 2400F anti-seize.
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Old Jan 25, 2003 | 08:47 PM
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Default Re: rod and crankshaft advice (Monty)

Well I guess I was really racing hard this year, 5 D-44s & a trans wasted!
Knock on wood, going to a full race TH350, 9", spool, 4-link &coilovers for '03.
Then I can start playing with the engine combo!


[Modified by new92racer, 8:49 PM 1/25/2003]
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