Cam break-in question...
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Race Director
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From: Sierra Foothills CA
Cam break-in question...
I'll know within a few days whether or not I'll have enough valve/piston clearance to upgrade to the cam I want. Assuming that's OK, here's my question-
Since I'm due for an oil change anyway, should I just hold off & break the cam in with the Mobil 1 10/30w that's in there now & change to fresh after break-in? Or should I change it now to a non-synthetic for the cam break-in & change back to synthetic afterwards??? I don't see the downside to running synthetic for this. It's not like I'm worried about seating the rings, but I just wanna make sure I'm not missing something. :cheers:
Since I'm due for an oil change anyway, should I just hold off & break the cam in with the Mobil 1 10/30w that's in there now & change to fresh after break-in? Or should I change it now to a non-synthetic for the cam break-in & change back to synthetic afterwards??? I don't see the downside to running synthetic for this. It's not like I'm worried about seating the rings, but I just wanna make sure I'm not missing something. :cheers:
Race Director
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Cam break-in question... (Les)
I thought synthetic was not good for breaking in an engine. Wouldn't that include the cam and lifters. You would also want to get at least a few hundred miles on the cam before switching back to synthetic. Lifters quickly seat themselves to the cam so they are mated for life, I am talking about flat tappet. Rollers can be switched onced used but not flat tappet.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Southwest MI
Re: Cam break-in question... (Les)
After considerable analysis of the available data I'm moving away from synthetic.
I used to run Mobil 1, but for my new 468 engine I'm switching to Castrol RX Super Heavy Duty 15w-40, looks to be a better lubricant for Very High Performance engines (better combination of additives). I'll be adding GM EOS for cam break in run (flat/solid cam).
Sure the synthetic may last longer, but I want the best lubrication...... oil is cheap, engine parts are not.
Check out the link below, you can get it at "Autozone"
http://www.castrolusa.com/products/p...1&product_id=2
[Modified by 66427-450, 2:33 PM 2/18/2003]
I used to run Mobil 1, but for my new 468 engine I'm switching to Castrol RX Super Heavy Duty 15w-40, looks to be a better lubricant for Very High Performance engines (better combination of additives). I'll be adding GM EOS for cam break in run (flat/solid cam).
Sure the synthetic may last longer, but I want the best lubrication...... oil is cheap, engine parts are not.
Check out the link below, you can get it at "Autozone"
http://www.castrolusa.com/products/p...1&product_id=2
[Modified by 66427-450, 2:33 PM 2/18/2003]
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: The Top of Utah
Re: Cam break-in question... (Les)
Several, if not all cam grinders, specifically recommend AGAINST using a synthetic oil for flat tappet cam break in. Some will not warantee a cam that was broken in with synthetic oil. Good luck, and...
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From: Lackey, my own dragstrip VA.
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Re: Cam break-in question... (CFI-EFI)
:iagree: , but would still ask the cam grinder. I am sure they have seen their share of warranty claims and have a policy on this very question :yesnod:
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Sierra Foothills CA
Re: Cam break-in question... (ALLTHROTTLE&NOBOTTLE)
:iagree: , but would still ask the cam grinder. I am sure they have seen their share of warranty claims and have a policy on this very question :yesnod:
