Header Fabrication
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 36
From: Annapolis MD
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 1
From: Park Ridge IL
Re: Header Fabrication (GregP)
VERY nice! 304? I couldn't really see the bead clearly to tell, but are you using a TIG or MIG?
Awesome work, Greg. That's going to be a badass car when you're done.
Awesome work, Greg. That's going to be a badass car when you're done.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 708
Likes: 0
From: Renton Wa
Re: Header Fabrication (542C2)
that is some good work I am impressed with that suspension setup too. what kind of chassis you have on that beast?? Have you done header fab before? I am contemplating right now between purchasing a bunch of U bends and building my own set of headers for my turbos or just buy a set. 1,200 to buy a set, not really sure how much If I did it my self. I would only spot weld everything together though with mig then send it out to be tig welded. I am starting to lean towards a header design like monty's since it does seem to offer the most room.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 36
From: Annapolis MD
Re: Header Fabrication (smokin75-427)
Thanks for the kind words.
They are plain steel and migged. When both sides are finished I'll have them ceramic coated. I've had good luck with that combo on my street rods. I don't think that stainless is needed on a NA car.
This is the second set I've built, the first were for the Ford 2.3L Turbo-4 motor in my '32 roadster. I bought slip-on collectors, a bunch of "U" bends, and a set of sprint car headers that I cut-off for the flanges and starter tubes. The sprint car headers cost less than the guy wanted for just a set of flanges with starter tubes (spread port's are a litle harder to find), and have nice machine ground welds on the back for good gasket sealing. I've welded the "cone" to the pipes and assembled a collector before but it is a pain. Also the slip on's (although it's really a "force on") also allow me to break them down for shipping to get coated.
They start as 1-3/4 pipes which is the best match to the ports in the heads (the ports are "D's" with the round portions being an expact match to the 1-3/4 ports in the flange), then step to 1-7/8 and finally 3 1/2 collectors and side pipes. I still need to insert mufflers and am looking toward the weld-in collector baffles I've seen in Jegs as a candidate.
-Greg
They are plain steel and migged. When both sides are finished I'll have them ceramic coated. I've had good luck with that combo on my street rods. I don't think that stainless is needed on a NA car.
This is the second set I've built, the first were for the Ford 2.3L Turbo-4 motor in my '32 roadster. I bought slip-on collectors, a bunch of "U" bends, and a set of sprint car headers that I cut-off for the flanges and starter tubes. The sprint car headers cost less than the guy wanted for just a set of flanges with starter tubes (spread port's are a litle harder to find), and have nice machine ground welds on the back for good gasket sealing. I've welded the "cone" to the pipes and assembled a collector before but it is a pain. Also the slip on's (although it's really a "force on") also allow me to break them down for shipping to get coated.
They start as 1-3/4 pipes which is the best match to the ports in the heads (the ports are "D's" with the round portions being an expact match to the 1-3/4 ports in the flange), then step to 1-7/8 and finally 3 1/2 collectors and side pipes. I still need to insert mufflers and am looking toward the weld-in collector baffles I've seen in Jegs as a candidate.
-Greg
