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Just returned from the machine shop to find out that my 7000 mile 406 has a cracked lifter valley. I pulled it apart to do a rering and new bearings, along with some blueprinting and AFR heads.
So I can utilize my spare 400 block to house my OEM 400 rotating assembly (short rods, forged pistons) or move up to all forged bottom end...the 4.0 crank doesn't look that much more for money.
Does anyone have some ideas on whether a 433 is all its cracked up to be? How much grinding on the block is necessary? Are the oil supports extreme?
Its a lot of work, and just as you finish opening up the last section of oil pan rail, you'll hit a water jacket and have to start over, if you have any money left.
I used to know some circle track guys, and at the end of the season you can buy a complete Donovan or Rodeck alum short block that is already made for the big stroke. In the end the alum block is sometimes cheaper, especially if you ruin an iron block after putting a ton of machine work into it.
Another option is one of the big high performace parts companies used to sell a factory block that was opened up for the longer stroke, that way you avoid making mistakes on your own block. They charged a bunch for just the block, but guarantedd that the stroke cleared the pan rails and did not get into the water jackets. It was Lunati or RHS, and has been a few years since I saw the info. Might also want to consider a Merlin SBC?
Best advice is don't try to it yourself, and find someone who has real life experence with the big inch small block.
A Motown block would be another projecto down the road. Figured since the original block is bad, now would be good time to move up into the forged arena and why not longer stroke. I must use the OEM 400 block I have so...
I do plan to go with AFR 210's and a 282 S or 294 S flat tappet cam initially. I have a Holley EFI to figure out so will start small.
Honestly, I think I will be happy as long as it runs...
I think it's worth it, I just wouldn't do it with a stock block. It's not too difficult to make 600hp/500+ft lbs with a big small block on pump gas with the right heads and cam. And it will still look like a standard 350 to all but hte most trained eye. I used a Dart Iron Eagle/Rocket block on my SBC 427, the only difference being I used a 4.125" bore rather than the 4.155" bore you were proposing.
Re: 433 Small Block-Any Experiences? (korvetkeith)
Yes, if the Hardbloc was allowed to cure correctly it help. An experienced machinist could clearance the block on a Bridgeport for "stroker profile" rods without hitting the jackets on most blocks - assuming core shift is within normal ranges. You'd have to run a .900" base circle cam as well.