Anyone useing a MAIN STUD GIRDLE(pics)
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 2
Anyone useing a MAIN STUD GIRDLE(pics)
Found it on Ebay. I've been looking for something like this for about a year. Does anyone have any thoughts on it? Anyone using one?
Here is the description:
#####This girdle works to stabilize the main caps by spreading the load evenly over all the main caps, making the block nearly bullet proof!! Hawks Racing steel main stud girdles are machined from billet steel to our specs. Flat surfaces are finished using CNC machine center for accuracy and smoothness. The girdles are zinc anodized for attractive appearance and rust resistance. This kit includes 5140 high strength studs, hardware and instructions for complete installation package!!
Here is the description:
#####This girdle works to stabilize the main caps by spreading the load evenly over all the main caps, making the block nearly bullet proof!! Hawks Racing steel main stud girdles are machined from billet steel to our specs. Flat surfaces are finished using CNC machine center for accuracy and smoothness. The girdles are zinc anodized for attractive appearance and rust resistance. This kit includes 5140 high strength studs, hardware and instructions for complete installation package!!
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: Anyone useing a MAIN STUD GIRDLE(pics) (Ray383)
I seen them before on all out race motors. But not very often. If strength is what your after.
Stage one is ARP Crank stud kit on a good 4 bolt main block. Good for up to 600 hp
Stage II is something like Milodon super main caps and ARP Stud kit.
Stage III is block bored and tapped for Splayed main caps.
Stage IV is aftermarket blocks.
Partially filled water jackets is also a strengthening idea for any of the above combos. Since stage II & III are used every day for Small block chevy's that make as much as 700 hp in racing I'm not even sure what they claim with a girdle.
Stage one is ARP Crank stud kit on a good 4 bolt main block. Good for up to 600 hp
Stage II is something like Milodon super main caps and ARP Stud kit.
Stage III is block bored and tapped for Splayed main caps.
Stage IV is aftermarket blocks.
Partially filled water jackets is also a strengthening idea for any of the above combos. Since stage II & III are used every day for Small block chevy's that make as much as 700 hp in racing I'm not even sure what they claim with a girdle.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,366
Likes: 34
Re: Anyone useing a MAIN STUD GIRDLE(pics) (Ray383)
I was looking for one of those back in 1998 when I built my engine.
I was told there is none. cool that someone finally did it.
I got the idea after reading about them being used on mustangs. I think the ford 5.0's only have 2 bolt mains or something like that.
I was told there is none. cool that someone finally did it.
I got the idea after reading about them being used on mustangs. I think the ford 5.0's only have 2 bolt mains or something like that.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 2
Re: Anyone useing a MAIN STUD GIRDLE(pics) (bill mcdonald)
I'm trying to find out if it would be helpful for the engine I'm building for my 85. Here are the details on the engine so far:
383
4 bolt non-roller block
bored .030 over and clearanced for 3.75 stroke
Eagle forged rotational assembly
5.7 h-beam 4340 rods
3.75 stroke 4340 crank
pistons are still a ??
AFR 190 heads
LPE 219 cam, cam button, and crane retro rollers
crane 1.6 roller rockers
SuperRam plumbed w/ direct port Nos (100-300 shot)
52mm TB
LPE 1 3/4 primary long tubes
It should put down some good #'s. My guess is +/- 400hp & 500ft/lbs at the fw off the bottle. I'm going the start with a 100 shot and work myself up to the 250-300 range as I get the tune dialed in. I haven't picked out pistons because I'm not sure what compression I want to run. I'm thinking 10.5-11.
I'm not sure that I will ever run more than a 150 shot, but I would like the be able to if I want.
Would this Gridle Help? Any thoughts or comments on the engine combo are welcome. Any recomendation on pistons? The heads are 68cc.
Thanks
Ray
383
4 bolt non-roller block
bored .030 over and clearanced for 3.75 stroke
Eagle forged rotational assembly
5.7 h-beam 4340 rods
3.75 stroke 4340 crank
pistons are still a ??
AFR 190 heads
LPE 219 cam, cam button, and crane retro rollers
crane 1.6 roller rockers
SuperRam plumbed w/ direct port Nos (100-300 shot)
52mm TB
LPE 1 3/4 primary long tubes
It should put down some good #'s. My guess is +/- 400hp & 500ft/lbs at the fw off the bottle. I'm going the start with a 100 shot and work myself up to the 250-300 range as I get the tune dialed in. I haven't picked out pistons because I'm not sure what compression I want to run. I'm thinking 10.5-11.
I'm not sure that I will ever run more than a 150 shot, but I would like the be able to if I want.
Would this Gridle Help? Any thoughts or comments on the engine combo are welcome. Any recomendation on pistons? The heads are 68cc.
Thanks
Ray
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 6,744
Likes: 1
From: delmont pa
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Anyone useing a MAIN STUD GIRDLE(pics) (Ray383)
my question about those girdles would be,"how does it effect oil windage in the engine" because it looks like it could cause oil drain back problems. :chevy
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Re: Anyone useing a MAIN STUD GIRDLE(pics) (Ray383)
I would get flat top SRP (JE) pistons with 6 inch rods. Get the internally balanced crank. depending on the deck height figure out the head gasket thickness.
I would forget the girdle and have your block converted to a four bolt main if it's not already. Your stroker crank and rods can be a lifetime investment. So that's where I put my money.
Out of all the blown motors I've looked closely at over the years. Only one time have I ever seen block failure as the cause. It's usually broken crank shafts or rods. I've also experience piston failure and seen holes and broken pistons from detonation and severe lean out.
I would forget the girdle and have your block converted to a four bolt main if it's not already. Your stroker crank and rods can be a lifetime investment. So that's where I put my money.
Out of all the blown motors I've looked closely at over the years. Only one time have I ever seen block failure as the cause. It's usually broken crank shafts or rods. I've also experience piston failure and seen holes and broken pistons from detonation and severe lean out.
