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I have two engine projects going on...one for a 407 and another for a 396, both small blocks.
My questions are on reduced (or small) base circle camshafts...
How do you know an engine requires it? What does it hit?
If the engine requires it, does this mean that you must install the cam before the crank, rods, pistons? And if so, does this mean you can't remove the cam after the engine is assembled...since even the cam bearing journals are larger than the base circle...
I understand that longer pushrods would be needed to work with this combination...
As I write this I'm remembering what I had to do to my 383. I needed a small base circle cam and found out after I had the rotating assembly in the block, obviously. Several rods would hit the cam, I don't remember exactly which ones do on a 383 but they hit. I just pulled the cam out (it's a roller hyd) and ordered the same cam but with a smaller base circle, I don't remember the exact size, It was pretty much that simple, The new cam should carefully slide in make sure you recheck for hitting and clearance that's it. I had a retro fit Hyd roller and the push rod length was supposed to be 7.250" after checking and ordering several checking pushrods the right size for me was 7.300. But you must check it, cause it will vary. Cam type and size (dur/lift) plays a big role also.Good Luck!
With your 3.875 & 4 inch stroker motors I would recommend small base circle cams.
Small base circle is usually refered to any cam that has the lobe near .900 inches. My last Crane sollid roller was .930 diameter My present SR cam is 1.030 with 3.750 stroker crank and large steel 685 gram 6 inch steel rods and it runs fine.
I have always installed the cam after the bottom end.
My Crane cam because of the small base circle and .100 longer valves that come with The bigger Dart heads required .200 longer push rods. My last cam having the .100 larger base circle only required .100+ push rods.
How do you know an engine requires it? What does it hit?
Thanks
:)
The potental interference is between the connecting rod bolt head, or the upper portion of the big end of the rod, and the camshafts lobes. Minimum suggested clearence is, .050". It CAN be adjusted by grinding on the bolt head or rod. Of course, stock 400 rods will clear in a 406/407 or 383. They clear in the 400 with the same crank. The center to center length of the 400 rod isn't it's only unique feature. Any other rod, will require checking. Even if it turns out you have a ton of clearence, Checking is cheap insurance. Good luck, and...
I am using a "stroker profiled" 6.0" H-Beam rod with 7/16 cap screws in a 407 without any clearance problems. The cam is a Comp XR-288HR standard base circle. :cheers:
That come as no surprise to me. They are "stroker" rods, profiled to give extra clearence at the cam. They would likely be fine in a 396 (3.785" stroke) too. I'd check really closely with a 4.00" stroke. A production 5.7" Chevy 350 rod will likely interfere, even in a 3.75" stroke engine, without some grinding.
The thing to buy from companies like Flatlanderracing is the complete racing rotating kit. They take all the guess work out of assembly. I have always done my own block grinding.
If I am not mistaken, the rod bolt threads into the rod fork (main rod forging) on those rods. The bolt head is on the bottom, not the top like a nut & bolt combo. If so you are likely to have plenty of clearence. Either way, get a .050" feeler guage and check it for yourself. Good luck, and...
No Go I too am using the SCAT 3.75" Crank and SCAT 6" H-Beam rods. The rods are clearanced for stroker applications from SCAT. They use a 7/16" cap screw (threads into the rod [no nut]) You will however need to clearance the pan rails for the longer rods. Its easy to do with a die grinder, just install the crank, and mark out a 1" section where the rod throw will be on a 1" centerline, take ~3/16" material out, then lay the crank in and install two rods at a time, spin and check, clearance where necessary.