Last weekend I visited the machine shop where my 407 CI SCAT rotating assembly was delivered.

Neat stuff. I've only dealt with OEM stuff so seeing the 5.7 4340 H-beam rod and SRP piston...they looked like jewels. :)

The crank is a 4340 3.75 stroke, internally balanced. SCAT did it for $250.

My AFR's are supposed to be delivered next week. Couple of delays...

I hope it makes 300 HP....just kidding. :)

 

Congratulations!
:cheers:

I hope it makes at least 301 H.P. ;) j/k

 

what kind of power are you hoping for with that setup?

 

No Go,

Is that 407 CI with a 350 LT-1 block?

If so, what did the crank cost, and is one available for a standard (non LT/LS) engine?

Thanks.

 

Not sure. :)

Sorry for confusion, but this engine is for an old style Chevy (69 Nova). I'm using a 400 block and boring it .030 over with the stock stroke crank.

I'm thinking of using a small flat tappet camshaft (282 solid) to get me started on programming the EFI 950 Commander MPFI.

CR is 10.3 with the standard AFR 210's 76 cc chamber, Fel Pro gasket, zero decked block.

An approximate estimate would be 425 crank HP. I will be chassis dynoing it for sure...then see what a small 75-100 HP nitrous will add-the EFI is like made for it. :)

All backed by a Tremec TKO 5 speed and 4.10 gears.

Not really shooting for a set HP number...if the engine runs to 7000 rpm and doesn't burn oil, I will be more than happy.

 

I ground the block of all sharp edges to avoid crack formation today. This block seems to have alot of slag and stuff on it. Still acceptable though.

Hopefully sat I will wash it up and install the crank/rod/piston for a deck height measurement. Machine shop only wants #1 cylinder measured...makes it easy for me, but not exact. I suppose I won't be that exact either though. :)

Then back to the machine shop for decking.

By the way, a revised estimate on the balanced rotating assembly is 1850 after tax and shipping is included. Still pretty reasonable for what you are getting. The shop only charged 200 for bore and honing each cylinder to each piston with a torque plate...again reasonable.

Little by little.

:)

 

I installed a piston and rod assembly in the block with the crank installed. Pretty cool! Everything fit together like a glove.

Crank spun over very easy after torquing it down with motor oil. I'm using the Clevite H type bearings. Looks like the main bore alignment is ok as is-never had it checked.

I then went to install the rod and I couldn't get the cap off with the bolts removed! I did ask the machine shop to loosen the bolts, but didn't think of the having the dowelled cap removed as it is quite a tight fit. I managed to dislodge it finally...don't ask how.:)

I need to grind the block on the oil pan for just one connecting rod bolt clearance-it does not hit, but I don't think I could get more than 3 sheets of paper thru it-too close. I also noticed that one of the piston skirts touches the crank counterweight near bottom dead center. This was a bit more alarming as it is sold as a kit and I would think it should be good to install except for block differences. Well I hope the little bit I grind off won't impact the balance of the engine...not going to worry about it.

My piston deck height ranged from .0325 down to .0265...will discuss it with the shop, but I'm shooting for the .0265 cut across both decks...will leave me with 10.1 to 10.3 for all the cylinders depending on heights.

This is fun stuff.

Simple question: For future rebuilds, how does one rebuild a H-beam rod with dowels? Can't just cut the mating surface can you?




Yes that is my 'parts cleaner basin'! :D


[Modified by No Go, 8:48 AM 9/28/2003]


[Modified by No Go, 8:50 AM 9/28/2003]

 

[QUOTE]I installed a piston and rod assembly in the block with the crank installed. Pretty cool! Everything fit together like a glove.Get some old (sacrificial) main & rod bearings, same for timing set, same for a piston (if you can find a local racer with one of same comp ht). Put it all in there with your properly degreed-in NEW cam. Roll it through to make sure rod(s) don't hit cam lobe(s). You're gonna want about 0.050" - 0.060" clearance (use modeling clay). If it's too close ... you can grind/clearance away & not damage new bearings/fill new timing set with grit/score new piston.

BTW ... the rods' dowels come out & are replacable.


[Modified by jackson, 11:19 PM 10/12/2003]