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It seams that nearly every off the shelf cam comes with a ground-in 4 degrees of advance. Every single engine combintation that I have simulated on Desk-top-Dyno shows best power with 0 degrees of advance (about 20-40 hp better than with 4 degrees of advance). The dyno curves also show very very little low end loss at 0 degrees of advance, and better hp from 4000 on up.
So what gives? If Desk top dyno has any accuracy, why are all the cam manufactures recommending installing them 4 degrees advanced? Am I missing something here? Is it not done because of a reduction in idle quality?
It seams that nearly every off the shelf cam comes with a ground-in 4 degrees of advance.
...why are all the cam manufactures recommending installing them 4 degrees advanced? Am I missing something here? Is it not done because of a reduction in idle quality?
Besides the accuracy of Desk Top Dyno, it looks like you may be misinterperting the situation. As in your first statement, the 4* are ground in. If you input the grinders numbers for opening and closing points, you are inputing numbers that are 4* ahead of "straight up". If you tell DTD to advance it by 4*, you are looking at 8*. If you install it with the 4* advanced timing marks on the timing set, you will get 8* because the first 4* are "ground in".
Generally, advancing the cam gives a stronger bottom end. Advancing the cam would improve idle characteristics, at the expense of upper end horsepower. Good luck, and...
I entered the cam grinder's numbers, and then put in a -4 advance to bring the net back to zero degrees advance. CFI-EFI: What happens to your Desk-Top Dyno curves if you enter a -4 advance?
i put in all my cams 2-4 degrees advanced for example if it says 112 and has a 4 degree built in at straght up it will show 108 i then install at 104-106 for more power down low and dont care what the program says for a street and or street strip car you need power down low :cheers: