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First time I have dyno'd the car since installing ported Brodix BB-2 heads, custom side exhaust headers with 4" pipes under the sidepipe covers, a crane roller cam (.636 lift, 242 duration), and an Edelbrock air gap intake.
It made 538 rwtrq @ 3800 rpm and 467 rwhp @6,000 rpm. This with a 10:1 air/fuel ratio (quite rich) and through the (JCL spiral) mufflers.
If I have 18% driveline losses that's 570 at the crank. I will rejet the carb a couple sizes leaner, it's short of its potential but in the ballpark... does anyone have a guess what proper A/F ratio might add?
I recommend a chassis dyno session to anyone who hasn't done it. You get a pretty useful baseline data set.
THANKS so much to all who helped -- ML67 in particular (who sold me the heads and exhaust), and the rest of you for inspiration and lots of "learning by lurking".
Next winter I really want to add a procharger. I'm only running 9.3:1 compression and with the forged pistons I should be good for 8 PSI intercooled... I wish these factory hoods provided more room for the air path above the heads!
Gerry, great job and thanks for posting. I plan to chassis dyno my 502 soon that made 614 horsepower on the engine dyno. I would think you still have some significant power hiding in there given your A/F ratio. Also, are you running your JCL's capped or uncapped? Uncapping them will give you some power as well and not make it too much louder.
My JCL's are uncapped. I had them capped and it was too quiet so I cut the cap out. I joked with my 5 year old son that the corvette had become "the whispering kitten" since it was really really loud before.
And yes, I hope to find some HP more with tuning. This was literally an untuned run.
I would shoot for an A/F ratio of between 13.0:1 and 13.5:1. My motors have made the most power a little higher than that but that is a good safe A/F ratio to be in. If you are using a DynoJet chassis dyno and you are at 10.0:1 (pig rich) A/F ratio, then who knows what the actual A/F ratio is. 10.0:1 is as low as a DynoJet records. I think you could easily see 25 - 50 extra hp with the proper A/F ratio - depending on where it really is right now.
Congrats on the numbers! My car has an actual 15.6% drive train loss. I dyno'd the motor on an engine dyno then put it in my car and dyno'd it on my DynoJet chassis dyno. The car is a 1967 Sting Ray with 5 speed manual trans and 3.73:1 rearend. Yours should be very close to this.
You are lucky to have run across Mark. Sounds like you got some good parts.