Determining Gasket sizes?
I am still, cough, working on my parts pile to rebuild this 350. I decided against upgrading the heads when they checked out as perfectly decent, and I read a few months back that a stock manifold for an L48 isnt all that bad... a little less flow than a performer manifold. SO... I'm planning on going the cheap route and having a beefed up bottom end with a stock top end.
The problem, is finding the gaskets to get the job done. For the intake gaskets... How do I measure to find the right opening size? If I want to do a little port matching, what is a good gasket to use as a guide?
The steel shim headgaskets, being overbored 4.030, I havent found one for this size engine. Are there any formulas to find the distance the gasket needs to be away from the edge of the cylinder?
I'd like to have a re-useable pan gasket, but there are a couple to choose from, mine is a 75 model engine with the dipstick on the passanger side.
Is there any reason to stop me from going with a stock gasket set? The ones that felpro offer as "Not for racing use?"
Thanks
RACE ON!!!


Quote:The steel shim headgaskets, being overbored 4.030, I havent found one for this size engine. Are there any formulas to find the distance the gasket needs to be away from the edge of the cylinder?
FelPro #1094 (steel, 0.015" compressed hieght) has 4.100" bore size and should work just fine and add some quench for you with some badly needed compression too. No formula for location to cyl bore but IMHO the tighter/closer the better. Less space where carbon can build up to cause problems.
Quote:The problem, is finding the gaskets to get the job done. For the intake gaskets... How do I measure to find the right opening size? If I want to do a little port matching, what is a good gasket to use as a guide?
I like FelPro gaskets but I'm sure there are plenty of other brands that are just as good for your application. You will see NO improvements by gasket matching a low rpm street engine. You can just use your intake gaskets alinged by the bolt holes and mark with a permenant marker on both intake and cylinder head to mark excess metal in runner. I use a big flat crosscut file for the flats and a large round crosscut file to finish the corners. But really only the big lumps and casting flash need to go. 1 hr job. If you really want to modify your intake David Vizard has a whole book on it (Vol. 2 Carbs & Intakes).
I just use silicone sealer around the front water passages and hi temp (red) RTV on the front and rear block castings ridges (the China walls) - the red RTV needs to be thick there (at least a 1/4" bead). Use a spiral pattern to tighten bolts starting in the middle and finishing on the end of heads/block.
Quote:I'd like to have a re-useable pan gasket, but there are a couple to choose from, mine is a 75 model engine with the dipstick on the passanger side.
Okay you got me on this one. Never heard of reuseable oil pan gasket? I have heard of a one-piece pan gasket. And a one-piece would be much, much easier to work with though I haven't tied one (yet).
Quote:Is there any reason to stop me from going with a stock gasket set? The ones that felpro offer as "Not for racing use?"
Again FelPro is my choice - even if labeled not for racing. Like the stock big blocks with over 400 hp (350 hp sb too) are never going to be raced? Well maybe not at Daytona this year.
Good luck and good night. cardo0
I have a set of FELPRO 1094's, I am not using. I give you a good deal on. Let me know if you are interested.
I'm thinking about an RV and towing camshaft... Keep the compression around 9:1 and the valves closed as long as I can for more dynamic comp. I'd just like to have something that will pull out of corners
I'm pondering an aluminum intake, but nothing high dolloar. Mostly just for weight savings.
Motorcity... are they new? If so how much would ya take for em?
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