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Tapping C3 Fuel tank for bigger lines

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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 12:23 PM
  #1  
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Default Tapping C3 Fuel tank for bigger lines

Yet another thing to do as if I didn't already have enough already. Looks like I need to replace the existing lines from my fuel tank forward. I am being told (correctly so I believe) that my 3/8 line is totally inadequate for my fuel flow requirements. I was looking at the Barry Grant website which has great information on all things fuel related including some good diagrams with pumps, filters etc with recommended line sizes but shows everything going into fuel cells not factory tanks negating the use of their line kits. I hope there is an adapter of sorts I can buy to simply replace the connections on the tank converting them to -12 AN fittings otherwise I need simply have new fittings welded onto the tank. If the latter I should get it done now as the car is already somehere in close proximity to a welder and someone capable of doing it correctly and not also blowing up the car. Does anyone here have any experiences or advice they can share?

Thank you very much
-Andre
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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Andre, I welded a -10 fitting to the bottom of my gas tank and plugged the factory outlet. I also use a return line so I welded a -8 to the top of the tank.

My system consists of -10 feed line and a -8 return line with an Aeromotive inline fuel pump. The great thing about this pump is how quiet it is. Plus, it is supposedly good for over 1300 hp!

Oh, and BTW, I use one of their SS mesh type filters in front of the pump and one of their paper filters after the pump.

Steve

Last edited by 632C2; Jul 22, 2004 at 01:02 PM.
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 02:57 AM
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you can get away with a bulkhead -10 or -8 fitting. Remove and drain the tank, and then install it. It seals from both sides. Or you can have the correct bung welded to the tank.

If you want to go all out, you can do a sump, but then you have to ditch the spare tire.
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 01:43 AM
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Thanks all, I will save for this for a winter project. Summer is just too short and precious in the NW and the car hasn't been on the road now in 8 months already. I have to break the motor in anyway so in some ways it is better this way as I will keep my foot out of it for a while. I think my tank is in pretty good shape, I will evaluate it more closely and if it looks questionable I may just but a new replacement and start getting it fitted in the meanwhile.

Thanks for the tip Steve on the pump, it is very important I get something quiet. The car will be anything but quiet but I don't wan t to hear the pump at all if it can be avoided. I never before realized how expensive some of the fuel pumps and related components are! Sheeez, after the tank this could cost me a grand or so easy! Would much rather be getting my seats redone instead.

Thanks
-Andre
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Old Jul 27, 2004 | 06:49 AM
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I installed a -8 bulkhead into the bottom of my stock tank. The location is very close to where the stock line picks up the gas and I was able to access the fitting through the filler hole to get my socket onto it when installing it





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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 12:31 AM
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Nice work Mike. I wanted to mention your fuel line conversion but couldn't recall who ya was - thanks for chiming in. I like the fitting location but I feel the elec pump belongs behind the tank when possible. Just my 2 cents and I'm sure yours will work just fine.
I wasn't jealous though until I saw the Drag Specailties hardware (red parts). You'll have to report on drag racing benifits and road handling too. cardo0
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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 07:05 AM
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Thanks cardo I don't have a elec pump yet, but will be installing one when I'm ready to install my EFI. I wanted to have a good filter in place before the fuel pump being that I'm now getting all my fuel from the bottom of my tank where debris can enter the system. I see that BG is offering a elec pump with a filter built in, so I may end up using on of those in place of the filter I have now.

I only have the half shaft safety loops from drag specialties which I added after breaking a 2nd inner axle. I painted them red to match some of the other things I have under there One of the vette mags recently did an article on the drag suspension parts and it's benefits
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Old Jul 29, 2004 | 03:22 PM
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I have welded outlets on many tanks. With the tank out, take the cover plate off, empty all gas out and stick a shop vac in reverse so it blows into the tank and give it 5 minutes of blowing air through the tank. I play it extra safe and wait at least 10 put 5 minutes will do.
I then drill 2 holes in the bottom, one near each corner and place whatever fitting I want in each hole.
I then take silver solder, something like what is used on air conditioning and with a torch heat the fitting to about 1200 degrees and run the silver solder in. It runs like lead but is far stronger and does a beautiful job.
I then clean the inside of the tank and reinstall.
I run 2 1/2 inch lines from the tank to 2 electric pumps which feel into a 1/2 inch fuel line to the motor regulator set at 6 pounds.
Tanks are not hard to weld if you blow them out first. My son worked for a company that did this daily and he taught me.
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Old Aug 4, 2004 | 08:24 PM
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This isn't the easiest way to do it, but it worked out quite well.






This set up has worked well for our 540ci engine. The fuel regulator is on the firewall and feeds twin lines to the holley carb.

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Old Aug 15, 2004 | 10:00 AM
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I have a stock tank that we put a sump in. If your interested let me know I will post some pictures. Also it has a nock out on the top for a return line.
Noelga
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