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If for any reason there is deflection in the valve train it may be a good idea.
Case in point:
I recently switched from a hydraulic roller to a solid roller. The spring pressures went from 330lbs open to 440lbs open.
Not more than 80 miles later a rocker stud sheared off, bending a pushrod, breaking a lifter, beating up a valve and destroying a rocker arm. It could of been worse.
I have since upgraded to the ARP pro series rocker studs and use a girdle. This motor sees 7000rpm more than it should and still going strong.
327 40 over, 11+ compression, edelbrock RPM heads, RPM airgap manifold , edelbrock RPM cam (488/510 lift 234/244 duration ),MSD ignition, 750 preformer carb. hooker header sidepipes with the JCL baffles in my 65 with 3.70 rear behind a Keisler 5 speed.street toy. occasional nostalga drags. (this car is new to me but i have a reputation of being "hard " on vehicials as my friends tell me. usually HI PO sport bikes and such )
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
As stated above by VETDRMS they sure are worth it if you need one
I am using the Crane stud girdle the motor has over .600 in. lift with a solid roller cam and the springs are 450lbs open. I also used ARP 7/8 in. studs and CC Hi Tech roller rockers with Hi Tech .080 in. wall pushrods.
Panchop That sounds like it would be a real fun motor. In that case I don't think you would need them. If I'm correct that is a hydraulic flat tappet cam? It will limit the RPM's for you. Its just a matter of insurance, we all pay for it and hope we never need it!
Panchop That sounds like it would be a real fun motor. In that case I don't think you would need them. If I'm correct that is a hydraulic flat tappet cam? It will limit the RPM's for you. Its just a matter of insurance, we all pay for it and hope we never need it!
The rule is: Before you set valve lash you should be able to place a straight edge right down the row of rocker studs. When you set the valve lash if it bends (deflects) the studs more than .030 when the spring is fully compressed you need a stud girdle.
I never leave home without one! My spring pressure is 540 open at .620 lift
I dunno- I was wondering about it myself. I am still in the planning stages (and saving $$ stage!) for my 383. Debating on if I should get one or not.
Then it hit me- sure they are sort of expensive, but after all the $$ I will have in the engine, seems kind of cheap. A LOT cheaper than what could happen if I needed one and it wasn't there...
I am at this point planning on adding one to the finished motor. Maybe not right away, but as $$ allow. I know I will be taking it easy at first too- will need to get used to the power.
My stock '79 L-82 is the fastest car I've had... and it isnt really fast. :-)
For the cost of the girdles and the cost of all the moving parts in an engine, I would recommend using them Vetdrms experience without them made my decision to go with them that much stronger. Learn from others experiences/ expenses
The rule is: Before you set valve lash you should be able to place a straight edge right down the row of rocker studs. When you set the valve lash if it bends (deflects) the studs more than .030 when the spring is fully compressed you need a stud girdle.
I have never seen or heard that rule before. I LIKE it. It really makes sense. I doubt most of us with daily drivers need a girdle. I feel I may have a borderline situation coming together. I will definitly use THE test. With the lift of gkull's cam and those springs, I wouldn't have bothered with the test.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I see you guys have used the Crane stud girdle too. The polylocks on mine were too big for the Hi Tech RR so I had all 16 of them machined down I forget but I think about 20 thou or so, did you guys (gkull or SmokedTires) run into that little problem ?
The Crane locking nuts 7/16th don't fit down inside the the Comp Cams or Crower Steel roller rockers so you have spin them on a lath to decrease the lower nut diameter. I think that I decreased the diameter .030 about .040 up.
That rule I made up! Years ago I saw deflection when I was assembling heads and I ask someone about it???? Movement is torquing the studs which will lead to eventual failure and it's a loss of valve lift from the get go.