Yes just when i thought i was buttoning things up, removed the drivers side block plug to install a MSD knock sensor and out comes assembly lube. About a 1' dia puddle on the floor of the stuff from Comp Cams that i spread over my new CC rockers along with some motor oil. No wtr or oil in block yet from head swap so i'm thinking CC lube. Now i did spray some trans fluid in cyls (for preservative) but trans fluid is much more red and i'm 90% sure its assembly lube. My guess is it ran down the head bolts and got past the ARP thread sealer white goop i wasted $5-$10 for a tube.
And i recall a forum thread about this teflon sealer is junk and some elses mtr got eaten up by this stuff in the bearings. But a machinest friend of mine says it really needs heat to swell and seal things up. But do i want to take the chance? Will the water stay in the block and oil in head while the sealer is trying to swell up? Or will wtr/steam move past the threads and into the vlv train area? Or do i just remove one bolt at a time and clean threads with long brush then apply Permetex #2 and retorque? Ya know once i did have a leaking block freeze plug on my Pontiac GTO when i rebuilt that mtr and it finally sealed itself after a few days/weeks of normal use.
My poor shark has been down 4 yrs and now this happens. Should I R&R the heads to retap each bolt hole and reseal with Peremtex #2? Or just fill it up and then start it up. Man i hope to live long enough to see this car run again.
What do u use for thread sealer? Any reccommendations or expriences are welcome and appreciated. cardo0

 

Permatex #2 is the best, you need a jackhammer to get it off your hands so is must work, losen the heads off and apply to the bolts and retorque you will be fine

 

I feel your pain.
I too fell victim to the ARP thread sealer (its a curse to mankind IMO, throw it in the trash). you'll have to redo them.
permatex#2 is the way to go on head bolts.
RJ

 

I don't have any experience with the ARP thread sealer, but I'm sure it isn't like Teflon tape that can break loose and migrate through the engine. Even if it were, it's going to stay within the cooling system and never get anywhere near the bearings, like with your friends problem. *I* don't see the need to take action. Like so many others, I have started out with bare bolts and used Permatex #2.

RACE ON!!!

 

I may have forgotten the assembly order and maybe that oil is just from cleaning the bolt holes with a tap & oil and red color from trans fluid sprayed onto cylinders before installing heads. But i don't know why or can't explain why the P-side is dry? So i will douse that drivers side vlv train with oil and see if anymore comes out the wtr jacket. If not then i will remove T-stat and fill with water to see if any bubbles up into vlv train. And if not then i will start mtr as is.
But if i prove a leak then i really think its best to R&R the heads. Hey i allways wanted cermamic coated hdrs.
Thanks for the support guys. cardo0

 

Fill your engine with water, no antifreeze and start it up. Let it get warm and see if you get any water in the oil. The reason I reccomend no antifreeze for the first try, is antifreeze mixing with oil and combustion products in a hot engine results in something similar to cement forming in your engine. I would do this on a day off when you can fill the tank and take the car out for a leisurely drive. Start close to home, maybe just around the block a few times to make sure you don't get stranded, then go further. Stop frequently to let things cool off for the engine break in. I'd drive it for a half hour or so, stop and shut it off for a while, and then drive another half hour. Put a couple of hundred careful miles on the car and keep a close eye on water and oil levels. Finally drain the water and oil out of the car. You drain the water to put in antifreeze if the engine is well sealed. You drain the oil after letting it sit for a while to make sure it isn't getting any water in the oil. It also will allow you to get rid of the various bits of metal in the engine as a result of the break in procedure. If you put on new hoses, recheck all hose clamps for tightness, and keep an eye on oil and water levels for the first few thousand miles especially.

 

I like that method. Thanks Russ. cardo0