Bolts/Nuts/Studs: 6 point OR 12?
I'm doing my reading about bolts at the moment, I know ARP makes great stuff, on the expensive side but great none the less.
The question at hand... does a 12 point bolt offer any advantages over a 6 point? I was reading on ARP's website that their 12 point cylinder head bolts do not require rocker arm removal to re-torque! This is an advantage, But I dont like 12 point bolts... When a 12 point socket wears out, your gonna crack your elbow on the floor when it slides off the flywheel bolt.
I went with Main bolts instead of studs, because the motor hasnt be align honed... I've heard that using studs on a motor that hasnt been honed isnt all that smart, wears out the bearings wherever the cap "used to" flex enough for clearance.
Head Studs VS head bolts... I'm going with bolts, just so I can pull the heads without pulling the motor. (C3) I guess ya could pull each stud out before lifting the head, but thats more work than I like to do!
(I noticed that ARP sells stainless steel head bolts... I think I'm going to stick with the stuff that rusts! Probably great for the ones that go in the cooling passages, but normally stainless isnt as strong as steel... sure is more expensive than steel.)
I noticed that flywheel/flexplate bolts only come in 12 points through ARP... I believe the torque converter was held on by 12 points, but the flywheel is for sure 6 point. I'm of the opinion that the bolts that were on it when I pulled the engine/transmission are original given the chevy orange paint...
Any reason why I should not use studs for these:
Oil pan
Timing cover
Valve covers
Oil pump
I'm going with stainless on most of the items that are on the outside of the engine... not for looks, just wondering if corosion will be less of a problem on say the water pump!
Thanks guys...





Heads need 12 point because you can't get a 6P socket down in between the springs when you use 1.56 spring diameter.
I use Studded mains with 6 point and billet main caps. I do not believe that it's worth the money to do the splayed caps. Just buy an aftermarket block if your trying for over 1000 hp - If the motor was aline bored with the main caps torqued with bolts, The block will shift. If your motor has not been align bored, studs do not pull the block. I just have the motor Blue printed when it's machined and don't get into details about bearing ware.
Studded exhaust is the only way to go. I have the tiny nuts to clear my 1 3/4 headers
Studded pan is nice, timing cover is waste, Valve covers is also a must because of aluminum heads.
I bought the socket stud installer set so they a breaze to install and take out.
6 point crank and flex plate. It's stuff you rarely mess with.
The reason I went with nearly all studded motors is: Because I assemble/dissassemble them with air tools. Studs don't damage like a bolt can.
I'm gonna go with the 12 point on the heads, may have to pick up a snapon socket thats the correct size for them though!
I'm trying for 350 hp... but dont particularly care for the rusted, beat up, bent, cross threaded stuff that came off the motor.
Do you think its worth my while to set my main bolts off to the side and get a new set of studs?





I got my stud installer socket set from Harbor freight tools. If you don't have one near you they are on line. I bought all black sets of air impact tool short and deep sockets in 6 and 12 point. Chrome sockets split and get beat up. 3/8th drive 12 point will do head stud nuts. just use a 1/2 to 3/8th addapter when you do final torquing.
timing cover is a waste, because I have thick cast covers and adjustable timing pointer for smaller 6.250 diameter damper. So you can't use the whole stud kit and it's not like yours holding something that's getting torqued on.





