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I believe Summit sells Hyper pistons as a recommended part for 383 stroker motors... thus I don't see an issue there..... I think if you stick to your original plan of low $$$ and remember that you get what you pay for you'll be happy for a few passes anyway.
I believe Summit sells Hyper pistons as a recommended part for 383 stroker motors... thus I don't see an issue there..... I think if you stick to your original plan of low $$$ and remember that you get what you pay for you'll be happy for a few passes anyway.
i'm going yo use Hyper. pistons and 350 rods (LT1 powder's) this one is for Torque ,going in my P/U
If you do not run lean you will be very pleased with the durability of "el cheapo" stuff. I just wore out my "el cheapo" 383 that I built in 96 or 97. After many miles and dragstrip beating it finally started blowing oil out the dipstick. It owes me nothing. I will likely rebuild it and keep it for back up or possibly sell it. I was warned almost daily about how foolish it was to use such low dollar stuff. Kept it on the rich side and I got very lucky. It worked for me.
I assume so. I haven't ripped into it yet. Still runnin pretty well and hitting on all 8. Only blows out under heavy load with rpm's. Been using oil for a few months.
I assume so. I haven't ripped into it yet. Still runnin pretty well and hitting on all 8. Only blows out under heavy load with rpm's. Been using oil for a few months.
how bad??? can you do a leak down test before you open ???
how bad??? can you do a leak down test before you open ???
That is definately the plan. It was a strong runner and I plan to fix it. Leakdown will be done before I pull it. Too lazy to do it now. The motor had the kb pistons and were loose from day 1. It has something like .038 in the top ring gap. That is what kb wanted. I will never run those pistons again. Noisy and oil pumper from the 1st day it fired.
While we are on the subject of budget rebuilds,
are the Vortec PM rods the same as the LT1/4 PM rods?
All the crate motors seem to based around a Vortec roller block and state they have forged PM rods.
GM#10108688
The motor had the kb pistons and were loose from day 1. It has something like .038 in the top ring gap. That is what kb wanted. I will never run those pistons again. Noisy and oil pumper from the 1st day it fired.
KB pistons are generally meant to be set at tighter than normal cylinder wall clearance. They say they CAN be run loose, but because they expand much less than a forged piston, the piston slap won't go away after they warm up. The piston ring gap must be wider than normal, but the piston fit should be tighter.
Originally Posted by rodj
All the crate motors seem to based around a Vortec roller block and state they have forged PM rods.
GM#10108688
I am not familiar with the actual construction of a powder metal rod. They may use a forging method to compress the powder, but that shouldn't be confused with a forged steel rod that is impacted from a solid chuck of steel.
Don't be fooled by kb's claims. They claim that if piston to wall is less than ...0025 they will be quiet. Mine are set at .002 and they have been noisy as hell. The min is .0015 and they have a max clearance of .005 (if I recall correctly) They took the abuse well but annoyed the heck out of me with the noise. I look foward to the day I toss em in the trash. They advertised them as "strong like forged and quiet like cast" They don't make that quote anymore.
"They may use a forging method to compress the powder, but that shouldn't be confused with a forged steel rod that is impacted from a solid chuck of steel"
I am aware of the differences in manufacture.
All the GM HiPo engines including the LT1 /4 , ZZx motors use the forged powdered metal rod (#10108688) stated to be good for 450hp , I just can't establish if the Vortec one is the same.
I am using a L31 Vortec roller block for my 383 build up and if the Vortec rods are the same quality as the LT1s then I will reuse them and put the saved money into new heads.