who has used this stuff and did it turn out alright. I have been told its really good but a lot on the toxic side.

 

Ron,

Most paints are not intended for imbibing. However, if you work in the open (or a well-ventilated garage) with gloves and eye protection, you will have no problems. If you intend to spray it, a respirator with the proper filter cartridges will protect your lungs and mucous memebranes.

Bill

PS. Really - don't drink it.

 

Ronnie, What the devil is DP 80? Is my PPG catalog out of date again?

I know DP 40 is gray-green epoxy primer; DP 50 is gray epoxy primer; DP 74 is red epoxy primer; and, DP 90 is black epoxy primer.

Anyway, like Bill said, the hobbyist that isn't spraying a LOT of it, can probably get by with a respirator with FRESH cartridges. I pre-primed ALL of the black chassis brackets and parts for my 70 with DP 90 before top coating with GM's 1050104 black, and you see, I'm all right for the experience. :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:

For someone that is spraying a lot of it frequently on a commercial basis, I would recommend a supplied fresh air system. In your case, if you are going to be spraying it, I would go ahead and spring for the fresh air system. It IS a catalyzed coating and if you get it into your lungs, you will ruin them.



[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 8:00 AM 8/5/2001]

 

Maybe the name is wrong. A guy that works in my complex was talking about it and how wonderfull it is. I may end up sending my frames out to get done as I would like to live to do it in the future. What does the GM top coat look like..is it bang on semi gloss ala original???? Good the see yah Bill, how are you making out on yours?

 

GM 1050104 "Reconditioning Paint" HAS to be "bang-on" semi-gloss black because it IS the black paint that was specified for almost everything on the chassis that is black (not the frame or the control arms).

Early in my Corvette enthusiasm, I attended a seminar at Bloomington on "chassis finishes" presented by Kevin Mackay (sp?) and Ron Goduti. In his work life, Ron was a purchasing agent for GM, and he said that 1050104 was the identical paint used for most of the parts. I understand you can still order this paint from your GM dealer, but you have to order a minimin of a 4 gallon case. You can get it in gallon cans from some Corvette vendors.

In this restoration business, you can't make any blanket assumptions about gloss level; you have to try and find a sheltered area on every part where the original gloss level still exists, or else, find a virgin original car or original parts to examine. The C3 frame paint was slightly more glossy than either DP 90 or 1050104, and the control arms more glossy still. I understand that DP 90 very closely approximates the original mid-year frame paint, but you have to use the "slow" catalyst I believe.

As I said earlier, my information may be out of date. DP 80 may be a newer black formulation.

 

Ron,

I am presently putting together my shopping list and plan of attack (you know, the one you end up changing every week?).
I am making an exhaustive photo documentation so I can put it back together exactly as it came apart. I am amazed at the extent of the original parts on the Urban Legend. It even has an inspection sticker on the heater motor. Is that described in the JM? There are also ink stamps on the backs of the wheel covers - a bit smeared but intact all the same. The thing is really a time capsule. The Ermine white is a great color for a mid-jeer, IMHO.

Bill

 

Bill..."putting it back together"..."exactly as it came apart"...Are you freakin' nuts, or were you just trying to see if we were listening? Think Bowtie, you scalawag!

AwwwNawwww, now I get it...you're really SD and we should start looking for absolutely bonafide original mid-jeer parts on ebay. :mad