Fusible Link Replacement






Then I would either use common butt connectors (less the insulating sleeve) or a soldering gun to splice the new fusible link into the harness. I would wrap the original insulator over the joint after filling it with black silicone or some other excellent adhesive. After cleaning up any excess silicone, I would wrap masking tape around the insulator to hold it together and in position until the silicone cured.
One thing I am not sure about: silicone will not stick to everything, so I am not sure it will adhere to the rubber. If not, you might have to experiment with other adhesives such as gasket cement, contact cement, etc. Once the adhesive set up, I doubt that you would even be able to see the repair unless you looked very close.
I don't know if anyone makes a connector like the original. It would almost have to be based on the shrink tube concept. I believe the original black insulator was vulcanized in place to cover a small metal crimped connector, but I have never had one apart; just from a little experience with automotive harnesses.






I doubt that they will sell components to anyone because they want you to buy the whole danged harness. You would think they would be happy to sell you a fusible link for $5 if they knew that was all they were going to get out of you.
There was an outfit that I saw at Carlisle or Bloomington that sold harnesses, but also sold some individual parts like clips, retainers, bulbs, and fuses. I think it was called "Eagle" or something. They might be able to help you out. You would think correct fusible links would be available as spare parts since their design purpose is to burn into when the wire is overloaded.
Check at your local CarQuest store. I'm pretty sure they can order the fusible link in orange. I think it's in their parts book in the bulk wiring section. At least my parts man told me so a few weeks back when I was chasing a dead short.....
Shannon








