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#s Verses non-#s?

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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 06:59 AM
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Default #s Verses non-#s?

I am interested in midyear Corvettes, especially 1967s. I was wondering what the price difference is on a matching number small block and a car where the numbers are all off. I take it that there is a difference if it is just the block that doesn't match and nothing matching. Any postings and opinions are appreciated!
Thanks,
Alex
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 10:04 AM
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Default Re: #s Verses non-#s? (Alex in Germany)

Alex,

To answer your question could you give us a little more info, what options are on the car, what type of condition are we talking about? What else is original/restored? Is the color correct etc.

Tom McCabe
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 10:41 AM
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Default Re: #s Verses non-#s? (Alex in Germany)

Alex, if there is one thing I WOULD NOT do, it's buy a mongrel built car expecting to turn that "sows ear" into a "silk purse". You would want to buy such a car RIGHT, and be content to DRIVE such a car and enjoy it; if you try to make it numbers matching, you will learn it can't be done and waste a lot of money trying.

Estimating the reduction in value for a non-matching numbers car will be depend on many parameters including exactly how many numbers are non-matching, what mechanical condition the car is in, the appearance of the paint and interior, what kind of "tars" it has on it, etc. A non-original engine alone would reduce the value maybe $3000-$5000 for a small block (my opinion; there will be others).

To give a good answer to this question, the individual would have to deal in a LOT of non-matching Corvettes, which most of us here do not. In my opinion, a mongrel "built" Corvette has really left the Corvette market (even though it still LOOKS like a Corvette) and has entered the used car market, and the skills to deal in such a vehicle have also changed. The saying that an item is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it becomes highly applicable. If the seller can find an uneducated buyer, he will be able to get more for the car than from someone who knows, restores, and collects Corvettes.
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 12:07 PM
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Default Re: #s Verses non-#s? (Chuck Sangerhausen)

good question I really think it depends on the car and the motor option but I do feel like maybe 25-30 % market price reduction :smash:
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 05:36 PM
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Default Re: #s Verses non-#s? (Alex in Germany)

What are you intending to do with the car? If it's a driver, a non-matching motor can be a blessing in disguise. It will have a lower purchase price (sometimes considerably lower), and you will not feel regret about modifying the motor. If you are buying it for the originality aspect and are really into that, then the numbers matching would be worth the extra money spent (which in certain cases, can be tens of thousands).

AC
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Old Sep 29, 2001 | 04:54 AM
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Default Re: #s Verses non-#s? (A C)

I guess I want a driver that looks good. If I were to change my mind later how much would it cost to turn a non # car into a NCRS car? Is the initial price difference big enough to justify the expense? Is it even worth it?
Thanks,
Alex
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Old Sep 29, 2001 | 06:30 AM
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Default Re: #s Verses non-#s? (Alex in Germany)

Tough to give an honest answer, Alex. Depends on your definition of "numbers car". To just about everybody, the most important number to match is the engine block. If you buy an original motor car, that's not a problem. If you don't, then you have to find a motor with a correct casting number and casting date, and then have it "restamped" if you so desire, to duplicate the original factory VIN and assembly suffix. From that point on, you've got numbers and dates on just about everything...trans, rear end, heads, alternator, regulator, radiator, carburetor, etc,. So, as you can see, if you have a car with "nothing" correct or original, you'll be replacing virtually everything with "correct original" stuff. If you want a Corvette for possible future NCRS/Bloomington type judging, buy the most original, correct car you can afford. As others have said, you'll spend a FORTUNE trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Chuck
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Old Sep 29, 2001 | 09:39 AM
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Default Re: #s Verses non-#s? (Chuck Gongloff)

Tough to give an honest answer, Alex. Depends on your definition of "numbers car". To just about everybody, the most important number to match is the engine block. If you buy an original motor car, that's not a problem. If you don't, then you have to find a motor with a correct casting number and casting date, and then have it "restamped" if you so desire, to duplicate the original factory VIN and assembly suffix. From that point on, you've got numbers and dates on just about everything...trans, rear end, heads, alternator, regulator, radiator, carburetor, etc,. So, as you can see, if you have a car with "nothing" correct or original, you'll be replacing virtually everything with "correct original" stuff. If you want a Corvette for possible future NCRS/Bloomington type judging, buy the most original, correct car you can afford. As others have said, you'll spend a FORTUNE trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Chuck
Alex, Chuck gave you the best answer to your question, if you would like a good example ask Jerry he could probably give you a few examples of people throwing money away. Alot of your decision will have to depend on what you want to do with the car, although you can drive a correct car, you will not find many NCRS or Bloomington cars driven regularly, some are not driven more than 20 feet at a time, as in off the trailer into the parking space at shows. If you do buy a somewhat correct car to drive, then restore it, are you going to really want to drive it after? If you are looking for a car to drive, get one that looks original and is reliable in your price range.

Tom
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Old Sep 29, 2001 | 01:02 PM
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Default Re: #s Verses non-#s? (Alex in Germany)

I guess I want a driver that looks good. If I were to change my mind later how much would it cost to turn a non # car into a NCRS car? Is the initial price difference big enough to justify the expense? Is it even worth it?
Thanks,
Alex
Alex, if you have an idea to someday turn your Corvette into an NCRS car, I would expect, in my opinion, the ideal candidate to have AS A MINIMUM:

(1) the original engine, transmission, and differential;
(2) the original frame in good sound condition with minimal rust;
(3) no evidence of heavy body damage that required body panel replacement;

Ideally, it would have:

(1) all the original glass in good condition;
(2) bumpers and metal body trim complete and in restorable condition;
(3) original interior complete and with trim complete and restorable;
(3) original radiator and shroud in good condition;
(4) and, it should be a highly optioned, big block convertible (restoration costs the same for the proud and the humble, but the big block convertible will be worth much more after restoration.)

On EVERY unrestored, original Corvette, depending on the mileage, you can ANTICIPATE the need to locate the following properly numbered and dated components for replacement parts that have been installed:

(1) ignition shielding
(2) waterpump
(3) master cylinder
(4) carburetor (probably)
(5) alternator (possibly)
(6) air cleaner and valve covers (maybe)

Beyond these items, you will more or less be planning to restore the existing or replace the tired and worn-out. This is easily said, but it is very time consuming, labor intensive, and very expensive. Like Chuck said, start with the most original, complete car you can afford and find.
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Old Oct 2, 2001 | 01:26 AM
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Default Re: #s Verses non-#s? (Chuck Sangerhausen)

I think in retrospect I want a driver, that way I won't feel guilty adding things like side exhaust if it doesn't have it. The only problem is trying to figure out what a fair price is non# 67 small block. All the 67s are advertised as either #s cars or Big Blocks. Also checking places like Hemmings only gives you the asking prices, not what the cars sold for. Can anyone help?
Thanks,
Alex :chevy
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