Chuck Gongloff

Several people E Mailed me about the spring compressor. Here are some pictures of the spring compressor commonly used around here. First saw one of these 20 or so years ago. The rod is 1/2 inch allthread. The nuts and washers are heavy. The nuts are 15/16 wrench size. The plate is 5/16 boiler plate about 5x5 inches. Disassemble the puller...put the plate between the lowest coils. Put on the nut. The allthread comes up through the shock hole. Washer on the shock tower....Top most nut farthest on the left in the picture is welded to the allthread. Put an open end wrench on the nut above the shock tower and a ratchet on the welded nut...crank away. The plate pulls the spring up into the shock tower...enough to release the pressure. Then drop the lower A frame. Chuck





[Modified by Chuck Gongloff, 6:28 PM 10/29/2001]

JmpnJckFlsh

Chuck, your all-thread is about what length? It appears to be about 30" long.

How do you keep the all thread from simply turning through the bottom nut yielding no compression. It would seem that the all-thread and the bottom nut would have to turn together as a unit, and I can't see what locks the bottom nut to the threads. The friction in the threads would have to exceed the friction between the nut and the washer or the washer and the plate. How does it work?

JmpnJckFlsh

Patrick, I understand how the plate could remain stationary. The purpose of the plate is to simply apply the load imposed by the all-thread uniformly to the coil.

Remember that the top nut is welded to the all-thread; the all-thread has become, in effect, a very long 1/2 inch bolt. When you hold the nut that rests on a washer on top of the spring tower with an end wrench and turn the top nut counter-clockwise, you are shortening the length of the bolt (and the spring coil) BELOW the spring tower. This relieves the load on the lower control arm allowing either removal or re-installation. But if that bottom nut unscrews off the bottom of the all-thread...WHAMO!!! you lose control of the situation in a nanosecond.

I know it works, because I have heard of others using this tool, but it seems like it would need a double nut on the bottom to lock the bottom nut and keep it from backing off with catastrophic consequences. I guess I need to buy the stuff and try it out. :confused:


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 8:51 PM 10/29/2001]

Chuck Gongloff

You could double nut the bottom if you want. As you're cranking on the compressor, just keep an eye on it....put an open end wrench on it if you want. When the spring begins to compress, the "friction", or pressure keeps the nut from backing off. You're right, though...you do have to watch it. Double "nutting" is a good idea. You certainly don't want it coming off. The boiler plate is completely flat...just slips between the coils. These really work well. Much easier than than the "internal" coil compressors commonly seen. Chuck


[Modified by Chuck Gongloff, 6:19 AM 10/30/2001]

grumpy55

It would work best if the bottom nut is welded to the bottom of the plate.
It would also be safer if you use acme threaded rod and nuts (like the threads on a tire jack)

Rowdy Rat

Chuck,

Very neat! I'll have to remember that one for reassemblly. I've been using the internal spring compressor to remove/install front coil springs and, as you mentioned, it is a real pain.

You wouldn't happen to have any "Maryland Style" tools to compress the REAR spring with the body off, would you? :)

Regards,

JmpnJckFlsh

No Grump, you have to be able to disassemble the compressor to get the all-thread through the shock mounting hole in the top of the spring tower.

Are you saying you could turn the all-thread from the bottom? I think welding the top nut is just to make the procedure a little more convenient and eliminate the need for a helper. Besides, I don't think I would want my head down by that spring during the process. :eek: :D

I agree about those hook spring compressors, Chuck. I have one of those, and it is virtually unuseable. In order to get enough compression of the spring, you have to position the hooks where they are interferring with the control arm and the spring tower. Then when you start cranking down on it, the spring starts popping, snapping, and bowing... NOT VERY ENCOURAGING when the instructions have explicitly told you that standing in front of the spring could be extremely hazardous to your health. :jester


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 7:07 AM 10/30/2001]

grumpy55

Welding the bottom nut has no effect on the function or dis-assembly of the unit.
You still can remove the threaded rod.

OOPS! If the nut is welded, you would have trouble threading the rod in because the plate will be at an angle (to match the spring coils) SORRY !


[Modified by grumpy55, 5:00 PM 10/30/2001]

JmpnJckFlsh

What I meant was if you have a nut welded on the top, as Chuck said, and you weld the nut on the bottom, you cannot get the all-thread through the shock mount hole on top of the spring tower. The hole is only about 11/16" in diameter; it will pass the 1/2" all-thread, but not the nut which Chuck indicated was 15/16" across flats.

Also, the plate is NOT threaded for the 1/2" all-thread, but has a clearance hole (5/8" will probably work) which allows the plate to pivot to fit the angle of the coil. Anyway, no matter, I think we've figured it out now. I just didn't want anyone reading this to get more confused than we were. :D

Revisiting the double nut idea, Chuck, I am not sure that there is room for a double nut between the plate and the lower control arm. I will have to check it out when I get there.


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 4:06 PM 10/30/2001]

Mac

Couldn't you put the welded nut at the bottom and then have the loose nut :crazy: (with a washer to protect the shock tower) at the top of the all-thread so as you wind the nut around the all-thread, it draws up the welded end-nut (which can't fall off) to the boiler plate which then compresses the spring. I guess the only concern would be if the welded nut clears at the bottom, but it should.

Sorta turn the whole item on it's head but should be safer which is really the goal of the exercise.

JmpnJckFlsh

Mac, it would work OK for removing the spring, since you could let the spring back down to its relaxed position, and remove the all-thread from the bottom.

But if you are installing the spring, you have to be able to unscrew the bottom nut after the lower control arm is installed in order to remove the all-thread and plate from inside the spring; it has to come out through the top cuz it ain't coming out through the bottom. :D

grumpy55

After thinking this over, and looking at my front springs, Chuck's design is the only practical arrangement.

If you weld the bottom nut to the plate, you can't get the plate through the gap in the spring. (duh !)

Mac

What I meant by turning it on it's head was to insert the all-thread from the bottom, not the top. Pass through the hole where the bottom of the shock attaches, up through the boiler plate from below, up through the hole in the shock tower and keep going until the welded nut is against the boiler plate. Wind the loose nut :crazy: on from above the shock tower, compressing the spring into the shock tower. I haven't tried this and I can't even look at my car 'cause Ron still has it but it seems to me it should work. Where's an engineer when you need one? :confused:


[Modified by Mac, 4:42 AM 10/31/2001]


[Modified by Mac, 4:47 AM 10/31/2001]

Chuck Gongloff

Stan. I've been pumping iron recently. You probably wouldn't recognize me. I just grab the ends of the rear springs with one hand, pull them into position, and put the bolts in with the other hand. :) The rear springs are a real PIA with the body off. Chuck

JmpnJckFlsh

Doop! Yeah, you're right.

You're definitely smarter; you let Ron do the winding...he could have had the springs removed, restored, and installed while we've been discussing this. :D :D


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 6:58 AM 10/31/2001]

Rowdy Rat

Chuck,

I think that there may be a market for your new found talent... Has Pat considered renting you out on an hourly basis? :)

Seriously, if anyone has any thoughts regarding installation of the rear spring with the body removed I'd love to hear them.

Regards,

Chuck Gongloff

All kidding aside, the last 2 times I helped install a rear spring on a bare frame, we got a bunch of guys...the heavier the better....to sit...stand...squat on the frame, and simply jacked each side of the spring into place with a floor jack. Five big guys at 200 lbs. +/- each do the trick. If anyone knows a better way, I'd like to know too. Chuck

JL66REDCPE

Chuck

Thanks for sharing this with us. You never told us how long the allthread was. Someone said it looked like 30 in. How long is it ??

john lolli

67HEAVEN

Chuck Gongloff,

Thanks for this idea and for the photos, Chuck.

Once again the guys on the forum come through with flying colours!

I'm getting ready to disassemble my front suspension and this is very timely.

Chuck Gongloff

What a beautiful chunk of scrap, Patrick. Now you get to cut it :) Forgot to measure the allthread. It is 24 inches long...plenty of length for the job. Chuck