Pat dont worry about the bolts being to small. Most engine stands are this way. Just make sure the engine is square on the stand and tighten it up. You should have no problems. no need to have the bell housing on.

 

and make certain tje bo;ts you are using are grade 8
jer

 

Patrick, not to nit-pick you, but I think you are using the wrench size across flats as the bolt size. Bolt size is typical given by thread size. I believe the transmission bolts are 1/2NC X 1 3/4, and the bell housing bolts are 3/8NC X 1 1/2. If you go to Pep Boys and ask for some 9/16" and 3/4" Grade 8 bolts, you aren't going to get the right size. Ummmm, ummmm, ummmm...these sewer engineers...they just don't get it. I am only needling you, Patrick. :D :D

Actually, the engine stands are built with a certain amount of flexibility to allow you to mount different engines that may have larger bolts. I used heavy washers under the heads of the bolts to ensure that the 3/8" bolt heads did not bind up in the holes in the stand brackets.

When you mount the engine, torque the mounting bolts to final torque in about three stages. The 3/8" bolts are adequate for a relatively short period of time it takes to rebuild the engine, but I WOULD NOT use an engine stand for prolonged storage of a fully assembled engine. It's not the strength of the bolts that concerns me, but the strength of the threaded holes in the cast iron block.


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 7:01 PM 11/10/2001]

 

[Modified by gtr1999, 7:32 AM 11/11/2001]

 

Yep, Sewer Engineers are like Project Managers...the only time they ever get noticed is when things are backing up and going to hell. Then it's all your fault. :D But, if you are lucky enough to salvage the situation, then they really appreciate you for a short time. Unfortunately for Civil Engineers, they never get any credit; I have never heard of a situation where the "big" sewers backed up unless they simply collapsed from being a hundred years old. :D :D

gtr1999: My experience is that after leaving my fully assembled engine on a stand for about the same amount of time as you, I noted that the engine seemed to have "sagged" and checked the mounting bolts for tightness. I found that they could all be tightened by a substantial amount. Since the bolts were properly torqued when the engine was installed on the stand, something had "given" or stretched in the interim period. It may have been the bolts (they were not Grade 8), or it may have been the threaded holes in the cast iron block. Rather than collect more scientific data, I had the engine mounted on storage dolly post haste and prayed it was the bolts.

After I reflected on it a bit, cantilevering an entire engine that weighs maybe 700? pounds or more on four 3/8" bolts for any period of time IS NOT a good idea in my opinion. But, I didn't have enough original chevy small blocks for my Corvette to run an exhaustive study. :jester :jester

 

" Do me another favor and answer my engine pull question"
Patrick:
If you are refeering to the Bellhousing vs the block, Block, not bellhousing
jer

 

Patrick,
Dry fit the bolts that go to the back flange of your engine, where the bell housing goes, and then go to your local hardware store to pick up the approprite grade 8 bolts. DO NOT MOUNT YOUR ENGINE TO THE STAND VIA THE BELL HOUSING! Mount the stand directly to the engine itself.

Gary

 

Chuck
Just to follow up on the engine stand vs dollie question, I checked my engine today.It was still tight with no signs of stress at the block. However, for peace of mind I bought a new $40 cradle/dollie and transferred the engine to it. It is now supported by the rear bellhousing holes and the motor mount holes. Plus I can move things around better in the garage and move the engine to under a bench.
Gary