Finally got the engine out...
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 10,866
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From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
Re: Finally got the engine out... (Patrick Tighe)
Great job, Patrick. I think it's always easier to pull the engine/trans as a combo. Easier to put back in too. The only "kicker" is that you have to remove the radiator and core support to get enough room. The "tipper" is essential. Makes life easy. Chuck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: POTSDAM NY/Punta Gorda FL
Re: Finally got the engine out... (Patrick Tighe)
Good Job Patrick, the only other thing I would have done was remove the sparkplugs before I pulled the motor so I was sure they wouldn't get broken off, I hope you are keeping a photo journal and a project log for distribution to the rest of us.
Tom
Tom
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
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From: Washington Michigan
Re: Finally got the engine out... (Patrick Tighe)
I built this pallet on casters with 1"x 2" steel tubing supports and 1/4" plate stock supports that bolt to the engine mount bosses several years ago; after the engine buildup is complete, I transfer the engine from the build stand to this pallet and attach the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, and transmission so I can detail the entire assembly before re-installing it in the car as a complete unit. Casters make it easy to move around the shop and get it out of the way of other projects when not working on it. Handy tool. The "storage stands" you see in the catalogs support the rear of the engine by the lower bellhousing bolts on each side, so you can't use them to build up the complete assembly. With this rig, I just lift it off the pallet, attach the engine mounts, and drop it in the car.
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Joined: Dec 2000
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Re: Finally got the engine out... (JohnZ)
I built this pallet on casters....
Great idea.....Okay, so how much grovelling do we have to do to get the plans / measurements?
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
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From: Washington Michigan
Re: Finally got the engine out... (67HEAVEN)
Never made any drawings - just blocked an engine up on the pallet with 3" clearance from the bottom of the pan to the top of the pallet, fabricated the triangular plates and bolted them to the block, attached the base tubing to the pallet surface (bolts from below into nuts inside the tubing), then cut-and-fitted the tubing from the top of the base pieces to the bottom of the triangular plates. When the engine is on the pallet, I support the rear with a wooden ''saddle" that supports the rear of the engine on the pan rail (not the pan itself). I also use the "saddle" separately with a jack under it to hold up the rear of the engine when pulling the trans or changing the clutch in my '57; you don't want to damage the 270 baffled/trap-door oil pan, as they are no longer available from GM and are VERY pricey (IF you can find one). The "notch" on the left side is for the dipstick "bump" in the pan rail. Not high-tech, but simple, and gets the job done without even touching the pan - it only touches the pan bolt heads.
[Modified by JohnZ, 12:49 PM 11/14/2001]
[Modified by JohnZ, 12:49 PM 11/14/2001]
