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If I were to apply lacquer over an existing application of paint (same color). What is the best way to do this to avoid cracking?
I am thinking of sanding down the present coat (which is not bad at all) nearly to the primer. Then applying two coats of lacquer, wet sending, then two coats of paint, then wet sand, then finally two more coats of lacquer. This is an attempt to end up with a very smooth but thin layer of paint, again to reduce the chance of cracking.
Allen, have you owned the car since new and know for certain the paint history? If not then this might be a risky proposition. Old repairs could swell with application of new lacquer thinner, and if the car has a thick paint film on it then the sanding would be an incredible ammount of work. In addition the primer used originally on the car would not prevent glass fibers from migrating to the surface over time, and niether would your new lacquer. Once a car is stripped to the bare glass you can apply a gel coat or two part primer-surfacer which will cure hard and prevent repairs from swelling and fibers from rising to the surface. Painting a car is a lot of work, it would be a shame to have to do it over. Just my $.02 :seeya
I have not owned the car since new, but I do know that about 10 years ago it was stripped down to bare fiberglass and then painted (red). About 2-3 years ago parts of the car were repainted; I do not know why. The condition of the paint is pretty good now; it is flat and smooth. I believe all the paint on it is acrylic lacquer.
You can apply lacquer over lacquer; you cannot apply lacquer over enamel without running the risk of lifting the enamel.
:)
This is also what I was told by two paint supply shops when I painted my old '71. But I took it to the glass anyway with stripper. Easy work, but messy and time consuming. I used Dupont's "Velva Seal" over the primer (then paint afterwards, of course). It came out increadibly smooth due to the Velva Seal. I don't know if they make it any more.
Also, part of the perfection of the paint job, and one of those little details that most people don't notice, was that I spent a lot of time between coats using that blue spackling stuff to fill in the pin holes. I think this contributed greatly to the "smooth" look you're wanting.
You can try lacquer over an unknown paint, but it is somewhat riskey. If you decide to attempt it, be sure to SEAL the old paint, even if you think it's lacquer. If there is much paint build up, it needs to be stripped regardless. For one, you can SEE a real thick paint buildup, and secondly the thicker the paint the more you risk cracking, bubbling, peeling, etc.
Thanks for all the advice; I think we will be sanding down the present paint nearly to the primer, then sealing, priming then two coat/wet sand/two coats/wet sand/two coats.
Allen easy to find if paint is lacquer, wet a rag with lacquer thinner wet an area down and wipe off after a couple of minutes if the paint comes off it's lacquer. Use a quality thinner not a generic store brand as this is a solvent and will not touch the paint(a good name brand of gun wash thinner will work fine). If you are going to strip a lacquer car I would just continue with this method of soaking an area and wipe it down with another rag.Kind of messy but much easier than sanding. Use a good pair of rubber gloves in a well ventilated area with no open flames and lot's of rags. I was hoping to use this process again this winter on my 64 but alas it is enamel so out with the razor blades. :cry Now if there is cracking, crazing,or webbing of any kind in your present finish you have to strip the car totally or they will show back up. I myself would use a base coat clear coat system then sand and buff the clear. It would by flat, smooth,durable and have excellant gloss. :cool: Good luck
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