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On some of my pieces such as the driveshaft and axle shafts, they have some pretty serious rust pits goin' on after they were sandblasted. Is there anything to do to fill the pits and make a more even, nicer looking surface?
And I'll throw this one out while I'm at it. What do you guys use to seal or protect exposed metal that was not painted at the assembly line, but the factory sent out anyway. Such as the previously mentioned, front springs, tie rod ends, etc. Is there a clear coat spray or some other solution?
Re: Need help with drivetrain pieces..... (Patrick Tighe)
Clearcoat in my opinion, just doesn't cut the mustard.
Now, Mr. Tighe, just what is the problem with clear? At least you are looking at real steel under the clear. If you put the clear on properly, I don't think it is detectable. Of course if you have pitting on natural parts, you are SOL with clear, because you ARE looking at the real steel.
Unless "Cast Blast" is a lot improved from what I saw years ago, it ain't gonna fool nobody if fooling people is your objective. No insult intended to anybody, but "Cast Blast" painted parts are going to look just that, painted. :D
Re: Need help with drivetrain pieces..... (Chuck Sangerhausen)
I use Krylon spray bomb "clear" to ATTEMPT to protect bare metal parts when I can. That being said, I also use cast blast. Recently used it on my half shafts, spindle supports, etc. Factory authenticity is nice, but I choose to draw the line in certain areas. When my cars are/have been judged at NCRS meets, I do "take the hit" for the paint, but I'd rather take a few single point hits and not have to look at rusty parts. Chuck
Re: Need help with drivetrain pieces..... (Chuck Gongloff)
I am a devotee of powder coat. As with all coatings over bare steel no one will be fooled and less with powder but it offers the absolute best protection from the elements.
I have sampled many combinations over the years and have found a matte clear PC that looks acceptable to most, will smooth the finish to the touch and looks very nice on cast parts. I coat the differential and shafts with this clear and like the end result, it does look better on castings than steel however. I can provide pictures to anyone who wishes, just send me an e mail.
jer
Re: Need help with drivetrain pieces..... (Chuck Gongloff)
Chuck, what is the hit? Living on the Gulf Coast, my bare metel parts begin to rust within a few weeks. I realize that I don't want a trailer queen, but I do want to save up my deductions for where they are really needed.
Re: Need help with drivetrain pieces..... (Patrick Tighe)
the shoot on a coat of Loctite "Extend" rust preventative. This turns the metal black,
Why does it turn black? I thought the objective was to keep the natural 'cast finish' appearance. :confused:
Cast Blast...never heard of it...is it available at your local auto parts store?
And on the fiberglass filler...I'm not looking to perform cosmetic reconstruction, but there is a couple of badly rusted pit areas I'd like to touch up.
Re: Need help with drivetrain pieces..... (topless68)
Why does it turn black? I thought the objective was to keep the natural 'cast finish' appearance. :confused:
It turns the metal black because it converts the surface metal so it CAN'T oxidize (ie: rust in no longer an option) but it's only a primer and must be painted over.
Cast Blast...never heard of it...is it available at your local auto parts store?
Cast Blast is a generic term for paints which look like natural cast metal. These paints are available in regular and hi temp formulations and provide a pretty good semblance. They'll cover the black and provide a cleanable surface which won't rust but will look close enough to bare cast metal to pass casual inspection.
And on the fiberglass filler...I'm not looking to perform cosmetic reconstruction, but there is a couple of badly rusted pit areas I'd like to touch up. :seeya
Depends on how badly pitted they are. Remember, if these parts are cast, they're supposed to be rough looking. You could use a steel brush to smooth the surface or any number of other methods (ie: emery paper, 3M discs, Scotchbrite, etc) but each leaves it's mark, so to speak. Sometimes the best bet is just to sandblast, treat and Castblast.
Re: Need help with drivetrain pieces..... (Chuck Gongloff)
I use Krylon spray bomb "clear" to ATTEMPT to protect bare metal parts when I can.
Chuck, I have also used Krylon's aerosol clear, both the crystal or glossy clear and the flattened (satin) clear. My only complaint about Krylon is that I don't have a real good feeling about its durability. It has some kind of odorant in it that makes it smell like an old dime store or crafts store. In service, however, even the weak finishes last longer than you would expect, and my concern may not be well-founded.
My preference for clear is to go to the extra trouble and tomfoolery to use a spray gun to apply catalyzed urethane clear; it gives me a little more comfort. You have to be careful not to let it pile up and get wet...if you do, you get an "un-natural" high gloss that is obviously a clear coat.
[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 12:55 PM 1/20/2002]
Re: Need help with drivetrain pieces..... (Patrick Tighe)
Here is a picture of a steering relay rod, which I had beadblasted, sprayed with Loctite, and then a coat of Cast Blast. :D
Okay, write yourself up a deduct of three points..."too shiny, too silver, obviously painted". It might even be a worse deduct by them midjeer zealots. You had better just "mitt" it black. :jester
Only kidding you, Patrick. Actually, I had a proprietary process to make my relay rod look "grayer", more like a forging, but it's been so long since I discovered it that I have forgotten what it was. Sorry. (You do know I'm kidding you don't you?) :lol: :lol:
[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 2:36 PM 1/20/2002]