Restoration Update
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 527
Likes: 0
From: Acton MA
Restoration Update
Had a very productive weekend; engine is back in the chassis, drive train is totally complete; in fact when the server is back on line I can post some pictures of a completed rolling chassis!!!
Now on to the body,
Allen
Now on to the body,
Allen
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 10,866
Likes: 717
From: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
Re: Restoration Update (allenz)
Good for you Allen. Suggestion :) Run the engine in the chassis and check for leaks and other problems. You can rig up a gas can/radiator/temporary ignition system. Now's the time to see if something is wrong. You would hate to discover a problem after everything's back together, and find you have to pull the motor. Chuck
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 6
From: Spicewood, Texas, USA TX-Texas
Re: Restoration Update (allenz)
Allen, if you have never run-in an engine before, I suggest you research the archives and plan your first run-in carefully.
To break in the camshaft properly, you want to maintain continuous operation at 2000-2500 rpm WITHOUT INTERRUPTION for about 30 minutes. This implies no interruption of fuel supply and more-than-adequate cooling during run-in to prevent the tight engine from overheating. This means a completely full, fully functional cooling system with box fans to force air circulation through the radiator.
Adequate instrumentation on the chassis is required to keep track of coolant temperature, oil pressure, and rpm. One of the not-too-old copies of NCRS' "The Restorer" had an article on building a black box for running-in engines on the chassis; it included an ignition switch, starter button, and the needed instrumentation.
Prelube the engine before installing the distributor, set the timing as close as possible, and fill the carburetor bowl to get the engine started without cranking and allow the fuel pump time to draw fuel to the engine. Check and properly set the timing as soon as possible after the engine starts. A buddy to help you watch gages and for leaks is probably in order, as you ARE going to be busy the first few minutes.
If I have repeated anything that you already knew, I apologize. Better to repeat it than you not hear it at all.
[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 8:23 AM 1/31/2002]
To break in the camshaft properly, you want to maintain continuous operation at 2000-2500 rpm WITHOUT INTERRUPTION for about 30 minutes. This implies no interruption of fuel supply and more-than-adequate cooling during run-in to prevent the tight engine from overheating. This means a completely full, fully functional cooling system with box fans to force air circulation through the radiator.
Adequate instrumentation on the chassis is required to keep track of coolant temperature, oil pressure, and rpm. One of the not-too-old copies of NCRS' "The Restorer" had an article on building a black box for running-in engines on the chassis; it included an ignition switch, starter button, and the needed instrumentation.
Prelube the engine before installing the distributor, set the timing as close as possible, and fill the carburetor bowl to get the engine started without cranking and allow the fuel pump time to draw fuel to the engine. Check and properly set the timing as soon as possible after the engine starts. A buddy to help you watch gages and for leaks is probably in order, as you ARE going to be busy the first few minutes.
If I have repeated anything that you already knew, I apologize. Better to repeat it than you not hear it at all.
[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 8:23 AM 1/31/2002]
