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I have a '77 that is pretty much stripped down at the moment. Where can I find the date code on the master cylinder and what should I look for? I would like to find out whether my M/C is original, so I can decide whether to rebuild or to replace with a brand new one. Thanks! :chevy
Early seventies Corvettes had a date code on the machined area for the front tubing connection. You can check there for a date code, but it will not be conclusive if there is not one there since this info is for early seventies cars.
If originality is important to you, and you find the MC is not the original, then you may be able to find a correctly dated original MC that has been already been sleeved in SS and rebuilt at one of the brake vendors. The cost will probably be more than a new replacement.
As Chuckles said, the date code will be near the front brake line in the machnied area. It's usually a 4 digit Julian code, the first digit representing the year, and the other three representing the calender day of that year. "7012' would be the 12th of 1977 for instance.
The casting numbers would be 5480346 for power brakes, and 5455509 for standard brakes. This number is cast on the passenger side of the MC.
BTW, are you into full mash? I've gotten as far as partial mash, got a great local source for liquid ME, but I'm ready to take the big leap. Dunkle weizen and Helles forever! :cheers:
Another thing to consisder is the day shift/night shift deal with master cylinders. As I recall, if the casting number is "right side up" as you look at the car, it's day shift, "upside down" is night shift. Why is this important....as I recall, one shift uses the Julian date format "year---day", i.e. 7102, and the other uses "day---year", i.e. 1027. Don't remember which is which. I'll have to look it up. Chuck
Thanks for the info. I have the M/C out right now and I can't make out the stamping. Maybe if I try the good old method of putting a sheet of paper on it and rubbing the side of a pencil lead against it, I'll be able to tell. (The M/C has a lot of surface rust as you might imagine.)
Mike... it's been a few years since I brewed my own. I was a extract brewer with specialty grains (for head/body)... mostly dark beers and thick high gravity ales. I find that at $4.99 for a six pack of Blue Ridge ESB or Yuengling Lord Chesterfield, brewing doesn't make much sense for me economically. Besides, I still have a Shark in pieces all over my garage, and if I spend time brewing, that's time I won't spend in the garage. Cheers! :cheers:
Update: turned out to be marked DM7031. Looks like an original M/C to me.
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