picked up a 1970 LT-1 with matching #s. car sat for 23 years and after getting her running and driveable, will begin restoing. My question, is the car worth more in original or restored condition? The paint should be redone, but is not bad enough to need it Good waxing and buffing will do the trick. The pass seat has a split at the seam. Should the seat be repaired or replaced with one from a donor or catalog made to the 1970 specs? Just trying to determine bets course of action as the car will be keep to 1970 specs.

 

In my opinion there is a very limited market for survivor cars and even then they seldom command what a correctly restored car will, with the exception of a superbly preserved example
There is a huge HOWEVER, what will that correct restoration cost. If you re looking for a quick turnaround it will be less expensive to enhance its survivor appeal but make certain you understand that the term, "survivor" or "Bowtie" and the guidelines required. These are two terms tossed around like NOS and Rare and, few actually meet the criteria.
Best of luck
jer


[Modified by 3X2-427, 7:14 AM 5/5/2002]

 

It depends on what you mean when you say "is the car worth more", and to whom you anticipate the car has value. Are you talking in terms of dollars, or in terms of irreplaceable originality? In terms of dollars, maybe if the car is in excellent original condition, and has a Bowtie award, it will bring a few thousand more from a collector. But, what you have to remember is restorations aren't free; maybe you get only a few thousand less for a very nice restored car, but a restoration may cost you from $10K-$30K depending on how deep and thorough you restore. You now have to think in terms of "net worth" to you, because the cost of the restoration, comes off the selling price. If you can get by without restoring it, and are happy with the car's condition, then you are thousands ahead.

If the car has been stored for 23 years and the paint is good enough to wax and look good, it sounds to me like the car could have a shot at being a "Bowtie" grade car. You wouldn't know for sure until the car is first flight judged, and then, if recommended by the 70-72 Team Leader, judged for Bowtie award. If you are interested in pursuing this course, I recommend you join the NCRS over on http://www.NCRS.org, and then contact Abe Feder (480-839-5320) about joining the Southwest Chapter (Arizona).

Note that if you do plan to find out if the car is up to Bowtie standards, then I would caution you about doing any further wrenching on the car. A perfect Bowtie car is expected to never have had any fasteners disturbed. Concerning the little asthetic things like the seat split...do nothing until you figure out if the car is a candidate. You will be penalized less in judging for original components that are in worn condition (within reason) than you will obvious replacements. The best preparation for a car going for Bowtie is a good cleaning and nothing more.

BTW, the terminology "matching numbers" is a subjective, meaningless term. Numbers never "match" on Corvettes...they either have the original numbers that were installed at the factory or they don't. Usually, when people use that term they are talking about the original drive train, and then only the VIN/serial numbers on the engine and transmission; that hardly begins to scratch the surface for all the numbers that are on Corvettes. If you take it to Bowtie judging, they will look at numbers you never knew you had. :D :D

Congratulations on finding a nice original old LT-1. :D


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 11:50 PM 5/4/2002]


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 11:55 PM 5/4/2002]

 

Much appreciate the advice. I don't think the car would fit te Bowtie bil as the original ignition was switched in favor of point s and there are a few minor changes. I do believe a vette should be left in, or restored to as close to original condition (as it was when delivered), but was mostly curious about general feelings as to restored or "left alone". Getting the car for what I have, and knowing what they sell for in restored condition, I have a dollar value that spending up to makes economic sense, allowing me to at least "break even" f selling. Much of the pleasure of this car is driving it and that will dictate where the dollars go. The intention at this time is to make te car a solid, road worthy vehicle that, while not a daily driver, wouldn't make me think twice about taking to shows, etc. The numbers only concern me to the point that the tranny and engine are the original, as the LT-1 is unique.

Again, thanks for the enlightenment..it gives me a far better understanding as to the direction I will pursue. :)

 

If the paint is good, I perfer to see them in original condition(seams showing etc.) love that original St. Louis look.Save the Wave.>George

 

Restore or leave alone? Good question. I am an owner of an unrestored 1972 and I know that there is a not so small market for unrestored cars. A friend said to me "a car is unrestored only once, and can be restored any number of times". I would make it roadworthy and repair as necessary. Depending on the actual condition of the car, I would consider replacing the seat with a donor in good condition. New seat covers look too new and often out of place on an otherwise unrestored interior. I love going to cruises and seeing the beautifully restored cars with their gleaming chrome and paint beyond description. My car turns lots of heads (this is not the reason I own it or cruise in it) and I get into lots of conversations with folks when they see a 33 year unrestored Corvette.

Just my $.02.

Gary

 

The split seam in the seat may be able to be resewn at an upholstry shop although I would expect the cost would be the same as R&R with a reproduction seat cover. As to the paint situation, If it is the original lacquer, it can probably be buffed out to look very presentable. If you don't have experience with buffing, take it to a body shop you trust and see what their opinion is.

My thought is that a car is only original once. It just comes down to whether you are willing to accept the flaws that come with age (and maybe the factory) vs. your desire to have a closer to perfect car.

I recently saw a '67 427/390 coupe at a local show that had very tired paint but had NCRS Survivor Certification. Watching some of the people who viewed the car was interesting. Many commented on how nice the car would look with new paint or "Why doesn't the owner break down and spring for a paint job for this thing?". The Survivor purists would cringe, but everyone is his own judge.

 

Save the Wave

 

Something I forgot to mention was that I was reading an article recently in regards to the differences between American and British classic car enthusiasts. Where the first inclination an American has is to totally restore a car to bring it back to like new standards, a British enthusiast actually prefers to keep the car as original as possible and actually regards time's little mishaps of dings, paint chips, fading paint, etc. as adding to a car's "patina".

Of course, the British also drive on the wrong side of the road and pronounce the word schedule (skedule) as shedule while their kids still go to school (skool).

 

Hmmmm....another ancient thread re-surfaced from teh archives...what you boys never check teh thread dates?

 

What? You never check the spell check? Just yanking your chain.



Gary

 

My 1970 is quite original. When I took it down to Silver Salute at Bloomington in 1995, I had all kinds of people comment on how the engine compartment and interior were fairly untouched. They all encouraged me to leave it alone.

However, one thing I discovered about many of the Bloomington folks is that they don't drive their cars.

Well, its 2004, the rear section of the frame is loosing one pound in rust mass each time I drive it and I am getting scared that the trailing arms are going break off each time I take a corner!

So, goodbye to "survivor" status and hello to a completly rebuilt 1970 chassis. My winter project.

As much as I appriciate the survivor cars, I would rather have mine safe to drive.

Stay tuned as I start to post restoration images here on the forum.

 

 

This place needs all the action it can get