The TIM&JG says originals are black fiber reinforced plastic. Replacements are gray color. Do replacements have the fiber reinforcing in them? Because mine, is grey with fiber reinforced swirls showing through. Bummer if it's a replacement one. :(

Also, how did they get that front hardware (the long bolts) on there AFTER the V support was painted? Does that nut down near the screw part of the stud actually come off? Mine ain't budging in the least. :eek: I suppose I'll have to clean it up with the cordless wire brush instead of taking the bolts to the bench grinder wire brush and then mask the bolt. :yesnod:

Also, does anyone have a picture of the "original carriers have a long strip of 1 1/4 inch paper tape that holds the lock and locking bolt to the tub"? I can't picture what / where that is oriented. Thanks.

 

Swirls...sounds original to me.

Some sources say original fiberglass is black, some say dark charcoal gray. I would say dark charcoal gray is the better description. If it's like a medium gray, its probably an SMC replacement, but you wouldn't be able to see any fiber swirls in that case.

The nuts are removeable, but difficult as I remember...particularly if they have been welded by exposure to wet northern climates with snow removal requirements. See AIM UPC 10, Sheet A2...it clearly shows the nuts as separate components.

You can find a bigger gorilla, but discretion may be the better part of valor here. There is a risk you may round the nuts unless you use penetrating lubrications and/or heat. Pick your poison: restore the frame with those PITA bolts dangling around, or run the risk of ruining original fasteners.

The tape...seems like I have seen a picture in Dobbins book or somewhere. As I remember it was applied more or less parallel to the centerline of the car, starting inside the spare tub and wrapping out and just over the spare lock and back underneath to the spare tub frame. If you are driving this car, I would not apply the tape until after the car is cleaned up and on the judging field.


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 9:01 AM 7/6/2002]

 

Thanks Chuck!

Good. That's a better description of the color of mine too. :) Whew. I was nervous there for a minute. ;)

Considering the bigger gorilla is at the Naval Academy today testing some helicopter UAV (contractors were late delivering stuff so they get to work the holiday weekend!) :( I'll just do the mask & paint thing. :yesnod:

Thanks. So it goes over the top of the lock? As in, to remove the lock you need to cut the tape? That's wierd. Not that I've judged a zillion cars or anything like that, but I don't think I've ever seen this on any that I have looked at! Maybe I will skip it till judging day. :D Juliet


[Modified by Juliet, 11:19 AM 7/6/2002]

 

Hmmm, now that you raise the question, I am not sure. That was my understanding, but as I recall, the tape was intended only as a temporary measure during assembly and shipping, and the tape seems redundant with the lock in place. It's always a good idea to try and see how a process makes sense in the assembly plant, because that is the only way it was done by GM. I would continue to gather information from senior judges before I submitted it for judging.

That is also my experience, and I think that either few owners are aware of this detail, or few try to replicate the tape because of lack of knowledge. Vaguely in the dark recesses of my mind, I believe I have actually judged or examined an original tire carrier with the tape (May have been a Bow Tie car) , but there wasn't enough left to determine how it looked around the lock. If the tire carrier has been lowered, and all have been (as required for judging), the configuration of the tape around the lock is pretty much obliterated.

When you say "paper tape", what is your understanding of the type of tape? Are we talking about that old gummed back tape like the post office once used? It may have been before your time, but it was used from a "wetting" dispenser that automatically "licked" the back of the tape. Or, is it more like today's masking tape?


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 9:51 AM 7/6/2002]

 

While we're on the subject - is John Deere Blitz Black (similar to Krylon Semi-Flat) the right finish for the V?

Or else let them tell me how & why it's wrong. :) There can't be but a point (if that) assigned to the tape.

That word is from the JG. I was under the a*s*s*u*me*ption that it was like the shim tape - aka similar to today's masking tape of a specific width. But now that you mention it, I don't know for sure. Maybe I should post this to
the NCRS board and see if anyone over there knows.

Edit - just found the pic in DObbins book. There isn't really enough to tell how it went.

Thanks, ~Juliet


[Modified by Juliet, 12:29 PM 7/6/2002]

 

I haven't used Blitz Black, but if it's similar to Krylon semi-flat, and the Rev says it's a perfect match, then it must be right. Doubtful that GM has ever changed that paint since the C1s. :D

Remember that the rivets are natural aluminum, so they will have to be masked.

 

Thanks. All done and installed. :) I scrubbed the spare up before I put it back in. It is the original wheel rim. But the inside, which I always had heard referred to as black, seems to be more of a dark grey, almost metallic looking. The front is the greenish argent silver as one would expect. The tire on it is a bias ply which looks to be mid-70s vintage. Is the inside of these really black, or did mine get some metallic overspray or something on it from when the car (and tire carrier) :D was repainted? I don't have any of the other wheels off at the moment to compare. ;) ~Juliet

 

Take pictures...that's what real overspray looks like. :D

At least without a picture or seeing it in person, that's what it sounds like. The wheels were definitely black before the outside was painted argent silver. If you look closely, you will probably observe that the metallic appearance is not completely homogenous over the entire back surface of the wheel. When the wheel is clean, you should be able to see the black in those areas where there is no overspray.


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 5:49 PM 7/7/2002]

 

Well I've got a stupid question now! If the tire carrier has been painted (I didn't do it!), what's the best way of cleaning the paint off to get it back to the original conditon? Thanks!

Robert
'70 350/350 4-speed rally red coupe
'98 6-speed silver coupe

 

Thanks Chuck. :) I'll take pictures.

I used lacquer thinner & paper towels to get the overspray off my tire tub. Then wiped it down real well with simple green. ~Juliet

 

Wiping with lacquer thinner should work if it's overspray and not too heavy. Lacquer thinner would eventually take off a heavy coating, but it will be a lot of work.

If it was deliberately "painted", and has thick or multiple coats, you may have to resort to paint stripper. For this small job, and since the tire carrier is supposed to remain natural without refinishing, I would use a pint of general stripper from Home Depot. If I were stripping the body, I would be careful what kind of stripper I used.

Work with a small section, maybe one to two square feet at a time, rather than trying to do the entire carrier in one application. Apply the stripper and wait for it too work per directions, scrape off the paint goo, wipe off the residue with lacquer thinner, rinse the area thoroughly with water, and then move to next section until its done.


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 1:17 PM 7/10/2002]

 

Jules, Here is a picture of an original tub(Alah Mac's car). As for the bolts...yuckie job to get them out at the best of times. If your really inclined to take them out get ready for a fight. I have in the past actually cut them half way up the bolt and left the threaded portion in the cross member. Done what I have had to do to the tube and then welded them back in, ground off the weld flash etc and you basically couldn't tell I was ever there.

 

Juliet, I actually have the tape remnants on my tub, and will take a photo.

Chuck, my tub was also painted (dang!). I'll try the stripper method. Thanks!

Chris..... 70 VIN 530. This sig is from my past life.

 

Chris, one thing I forgot to mention to RMVette that will be helpful in stripping the paint: buy a sheet or two of 'Scotchbrite' pad material. After you have scrapped off the liquid goo (plastic or wood scrapping tool), you can use the "Scotchbrite' to scrub any softened paint that remains. It may take more than one application of stripper. No problem, just let the stripper do the work.

I don't know what previous owners were covering up with the paint, but they probably found it easier to paint the whole tub rather than mask off the frame. The paint gave them a nice uniform black (I presume) finish for the tub. In any event, when you are done stripping you should have a nice dark charcoal gray fiberglass tub, with visible fiberglass fibers and a nice semi-flat patina.

Pictures of your tape remnants would be very interesting...looking forward to seeing them myself.

 

Chris - YOWZA! That'll be really cool !!! :cool: Would it be OK to put it on the Registry website too? I'm sure a BUNCH of folks would like to see that. :yesnod: Thanks! ~Juliet