Wiper Arms
Wiper door linkage assembly is all the same finish as the wiper transmissions and the plenum blackout WITHOUT overspray. It only makes sense that the wiper door would have been installed after all those components were in place.
There are some distinguishing attributes on the original wiper inserts, but I don't know them. In any event, my opinion is that I don't think you are going to find ANY wiper inserts that are identical to the originals. I used to see some inserts and complete blades advertised in Hemmings, but I think those have pretty much dried up now. In fact, most of those were actually replacement parts, and that's probably the best you will be able to do now if you are lucky. I could never get too excited about forking over big bucks for "NOS" wiper inserts anyway...aftermarket replacements will probably only cost you a point or three.
It's impractical to write a judging manual that will cover this level of detail, which leads me to believe that we don't have to worry a lot about "by-the-book" wholesale cookie-cutting of Top Flights. :D :D
[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 10:05 AM 7/19/2002]
Cheers :cheers:
Bob
My 73 has the little metal clips on the wiper arms that (I think) are supposed to hold the washer tubes in place but, at some point, Bubba wrapped black electrical tape around the wiper arms to hold the wiper tubes. I'm guessing Bubba couldn't get the clips back in the right place or ????
At any rate, if I could see where the clips are supposed to be....
From this reference, I conclude that your 73 wiper blades were made the same as the 69-72, i.e. your car originally had the rigid brass washer tubing on the wiper blades. If your blades have the rubber tubing, I believe those blades are the later style 74-82 replacement blades. Originality may not be that big of an issue for you, but it will change how the tubing is attached.
At the outlet end, the brass tubing was soldered to metal tabs that were riveted to the blades. There were also three plastic clips on the left side blade and four clips on the right side blade to secure the brass tubing to the blade. I believe these plastic clips are now available as reproduction, and I would expect instructions for positioning of these clips to be included with the parts. If you still have the original plastic clips, these are a rare find.
Replacement blades with the rubber tubing would look like parts "I" and "J" shown in the reference, but no details of the clips are visible to me.
[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 6:39 PM 7/20/2002]
I've done a large number of modifications on the Tandy 1000 so I'm able to run Adobe Acrobat and most other programs. The resource you quoted came through clearly, good diagrams.
I think I'm gonna have to invest in a 73 AIM if I want to continue to bring things back to factory. While I have no intention of flight judging her, why not make any repairs "correct" if you get my meaning..... it couldn't hurt!
Of course, I could rustle up a correct dated block, punch it out, add a stroker crank, all sorts of aftermarket go-fast pistons & rods, balance & blueprint, restamp it and then pretend it's a numbers matching car that just happens to run a little hotter than usual.... naw, I'm too honest for that! ;)
Another great thing about the Mrs. being away at the cottage, while I'm at home workin' on ol' 67, is that I can let one rip whenever I want. :lol:
You know, these cars are great for relieving all sorts of pressures. :jester
Now, back to our regularly scheduled programming.....
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
My late grandfather had a saying (maybe that's where I inherited my silver tongue) to wit:
A fartin' horse will never tire. A fartin' man's the one to hire.
I've never been without a job. What can I say? :jester
A fartin' horse will never tire. A fartin' man's the one to hire.









