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What is the best way to set the solid rivet in a vent window hinge and installing a new window track roller? I see aircraft builders use an air hammer with bucking block and/or a rivet squeezer(rather expensive). I tried to use a hammer and a punch but the rivet is way to stiff to set correctly.
I'm not sure you have the correct rivet. I worked for GM back then and was involved with vent windows. I remember a tubular shoulder rivet for the upper pivot. Both Paragon and Dr. Rebuild catalogs appear to show a tubular rivet. The Paragon picture (p/n 1156) is what I remember. You will need an anvil that curls the rivet. I would check the Yellow Pages in your area to find an industrial supply house that handles rivets. They will probably sell a pilotless anvil that will work. I would mount the anvil in a block, put the rivet through, then curl it with a hand bench press. Put a little lube on the anvil to minimize chances of splitting the curl.
Solid rivets are best set with an air hammer and a rivet set backed up with a bucking bar, however I belive that the rivets are hollow shank rivets on the rollers. There is a place on the web that is called Jay-cee sales that can supply almost any type and size rivet that you could name, and they also sell tools like a hollow shank setting tool for all sizes.
:seeya
JSB69, You are exactly correct. The vent window hinge is the type of rivet you described. I generalized it as a solid rivet because it was not a pop rivet. Sorry about that. I have been searching for the correct tool to do the job but can't seem to find anything out except for solid rivet tools used on aircraft, the squeezer and air hammer. I am unsure if these types of tools would work correctly. I hate to spend money on a tool I can't use. Your suggestion on the anvil has me puzzled. When you say anvil, are you referring to a block of iron that would force the rivet to collapse outward like the factory one when it squeezed by a press?
There was a thread a while back about rivet setting tools (air hammer attachment and bucking bar) which included instructions even to the psi setting for the air hammer. I tried a title search for it but couldn't find it. Maybe someone else can recall the details??
This is hard to describe, but I'll give it a shot. The anvil would be round with an OD slightly larger than the finished curl. If you took a cross section, through the center, the top would look like a "W" with the three points rounded. The center point would locate the center of the rivet tube and as you squeezed the rivet downward the outside wall of the tube would flow down the point of the "W", hit the curve at the bottom and flow back up the outsides producing the curl. If you find the place in your area that sells riveting machines and rivets they will know exactly what I'm trying to say. Maybe you could post on the C 1-2 forum. There ceratinly has to be someone out there who has done this.
I think I have it figured out now. I called and talked to the Jay-Cee rep today and I need a punch made for a semi tubular rivet( JSB69...The W pattern...smile).They sell either an old fashioned punch to use with a hammer or the rivet set attachments for use with a air hammer. I think I will watch ebay for an used air hammer. I hate the idea of swinging a hammer around my vent window....horror the thought.
Bay Ray, You can use a cheap air chisel from home depot, but you just need to turn the air down low. An aircraft rivet gun hits with a much shorter stroke and faster speed but the cheap $25 special wil work as well. You will also find that the manual set works well also, and I dont think that the hammer is abig issue.
:seeya
I wouldn't hit the rivet, I wouild sqeeze it. For a better idea of the tooling needed, go to a marine canvas store and look at the punch and die they sell for replacing snaps. It's a larger version of what you need.
Thanks again for all the help. I had thought of using the lower cost air chisel gun with a rivet set installed, but was unsure if it had the power. I think I will try that route first. I have a window regulator roller to replace also, so I'll get the hang of it there before I do the more visible vent window. Again thanks for all the responses.