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In another post, I had noticed that therre was a couple entries on paint. One entry displayed cast blast and stainless steel paint that they had purchased at Carlisle. I also bought some paint from Branden -- the Chrome Aliminum as Zinc Plating is getting expensive and hard to find. I use the Chrome Aluminum then a shot of Satin Clear for Zinc plated parts.
That thread got me wondering what paints and techniques other folks use on Corvette parts -- like the steering / suspension componenets, rear end components and any other parts.
Another example -- Interior moldings, dash cluster, underhood , chassis touchup, brake master cylinder, battery box, hood hinges -- all Krylon 1613 semi flat black. Additionally, I use an airbrush and artist brushes in places that are tight.
John, most of these guys won't even admit they use paint on parts that came from the factory rusted, so asking them to dole out secret about how they simulate the factory rust won't get you very far.
I aint afraid to admit it .I consider myself a purist like others in this section but I also feel if you can make it better ,why not ?The way I look at it is I restore cars to preserve them ,if I i dont protect them from rusting away ,then why am I wasting my time .Trust me there are easier ways to earn a living.Oh btw I use eastwood detail paints ,mostly underhood black,detail gray and spray gray(castiron gray). :yesnod:
I am also a purist -- to a point. There are just some areas where I just have to take the point(s). For example, I just cant bring myself up to overspray my water pump bypass hose or my aluminum intake manifold that took a lot of real work to get right. Other parts like the stabilizer bars front and rear and the half shafts need more protection than just natural.
...so asking them to dole out secret about how they simulate the factory rust won't get you very far.
Why, Macster, don't be absurd...I'll be happy to share a secret with you. You don't have to "simulate" rust; you can have the real deal. :D :D
Just beadblast the part to be "restored" to white metal, then leave the part outdoors for one to five nights depending on the climate. Without dew, like out here, you may need to resort to misting them with a spray bottle. Then, when they look "just like factory", you can finish them to suit (that would be clear if desired); or, just leave'em bare and let'em look more like factory every year. :lol: :lol:
Heck out here in Southern New Jersey all you have to do is bead blast the parts and leave them out for 5 or so minutes and surface rust begins. It is real easy to duplicate factory original rust here.
"Just beadblast the part to be "restored" to white metal, then leave the part outdoors for one to five nights "
Chuck:
I usually just walk out back and dunk them in the saltwater for five minutes, effectively duplicates thirty eight years of "the real thing" :jester
jer
Hmmmm...I reckon "M.O." mus' eether mean "modus opportunis" or le toilette petite in Canajun, or else you mus' speakin' of the humorous elements of satire and irony agin. :D :D :D