I think that I am learning something about this subject and then learn I am not.

First question is about tank stickers. I've have seen a fuzzy picture of one. Does the tank sticker have pretty much the same info as the invoice, but without the prices, or does it have other info? I can't read the one I have a picture of.

Next question is on matchng numbers. Does this mean that the part is the correct part for the car and is so identified, even thought it may be a reproduction, or does it mean that it is the part that was on the car? For example, I just bought a Dewitt radiator and paid extra to have it painted and dated, etc. Does that mean that it is #matching. Also I think that I have a 1967 327/300 in my 66 car. If this is correct, is that #'s matching or just a NOM motor?

Mine wa sold as a mostly #'s matching car, and appears to be correct in most areas other than a hose or two, and a battery, and where I changed over to dual master cylinders. I bought it to drive and not as a show car, but I would like to do what I can to keep it as close to #'s matching as I can.

Your wise inofrmation is appreciated.

Frac :) GB

 

Hi Frac-

The term 'matching numbers' is one of the two most over abused and meaningless phrases in the hobby today. The other term is 'original miles'.

Neither has a hard universal legal definition. If you ask 10 people, you'll get 10 answers. Usually the sellers definition of 'matching numbers' will be at one end of the scale, and the buyers interpretation is at the other end.

I suppose it originally was intended to mean the actual piece that that factory originally installed on the car in question, but that's my 1/10 of the possible interpretations.

The main judging body of the Corvette hobby (NCRS) steers clear of this terminology for this and many other reasons.


Regarding tank stickers, first off these were not introduced untill 1967 MY so your '66 won't have one. The info on the tank sticker is similar to the invoice in that they both list what options the car was ordered with, but gives more info on production dates etc. There are no prices listed on tank stickers.

 

As Mike said, you'll get 10 different opinions, but for an "old geezer" like me, the original intention of the phrase "matching numbers" was to state that the original motor was in the car....the VIN derivitive stamped on the pad "matched" the serial number of the car.

Matching numbers has expanded to include just about anything that has a part number and/or date code on it. It's also expanded to include parts (maybe reproduction) of the correct original configuration.

There are numbers and dates on carbs, alternators, intake manifolds, radiators, transmissions, rear end cases, etc., etc. It's endless. Chuck

 

The friggin JACKS are dated!!! :lol: Too bad they didnt datestamp the owners manuals - we coulda had people searching high and low for a numbers matching owners manual! :)

My personal favorite is the "numbers matching period correct restamped" NOM. MJ

 

I like that one to....I wonder,
If I get the whole vette restamped, Would it be correct????????

 

MNJack

The 1966 Owners Manual is in fact dated - kind of. There is a first edition and a second edition. Cars up to around Dec 65 have the first edition.

Amazin -- ain't it ?????????


john lolli

 

Frac, I agree that the numbers matching concept is misused in many instances. In my opinion, the distinction ought to be whether the part is "Original". Unfortunately, this is also hard to distinguish unless you have access to owner history and make those inquiries.

 

I am finding that this numbers matching thing has gone a little too far. I have NOM and for kicks started searching. I have found that I could replace every numbered, dated part including a restamped block for the right amount of $$$. Now if I do all of this and build it into a 383 stroker, I have matching numbers vette that is really anything but... and it would be hard to distinguish it from a true original.

So how does one really buy numbers matching vette and know it is original?

 

I guess maybe the best thing to do over the long haul is try to make the car as correct as you can using original or repro dated and stamped parts, as neededas and as accessesible, and then if you sell the car, sell it for what it is, "an effort to have a correct period car", and let the chips fall where they may. Then if the car presents itself well, it will sell for what it is worth. From what I have seen, the cars are a no lose proposition, you buy them, have fun and if you ever sell them, you get paid back for all the fun you had. It appears, that if the cars are presentable, they will sell for a decent price, and if they have been buggered with to any extent, it is pretty obvious, and it comes out.

I don't ever see myself getting serious about showing the car, only having it look as much like it should, and then driving it until I have to replace all of the parts again. Mine is a purchase that started on the internet, and was done with pictures, and references, and probably too much faith in humanity. However, even though it could have been a disaster of the first order, it turned out ok and everyone was pleased (which is the test of any good sale).

As to original miles. I feel that I definitely have an original miles car with a reading of 07464. Course any one with any sense would be comfortable in the fact that it has rolled over at least once, and the fact the it showed the same milage on a tile in 1982 might enter into the equation as well.

Thank you all for helping to educate this "greengo" from Alabama.

Frac :) GB

 

So I just gotta ask- what exactly are 'original miles' as compared to unoriginal miles. Does this term mean 'correctly recorded total mileage' or does it mean 'miles since new' or 'miles before restoration' or does it mean 'authentic miles instead of repro miles'

My speedo shows 154XX., but I know it's actually 1154XX. How many of those miles are original?

I think you get my drift that it's just another meaningless term. :cheers:

 

I think you summed it up pretty well.