Just took California Duster to my hood and the black paint , the body shop sprayed on last week came off. He said he'd repaint it but doubted it would stick
Any Ideas from someone who has done this ?? :cry :confused:


[Modified by Lickitty, 5:07 AM 10/8/2002]

 

I haven't done it before, but I bet I could paint it where a California Duster wouldn't knock it off. :rolleyes:

What's the problem? Generally people are looking for an easy way to paint the black without the tedious masking job. In your painter's case, I don't think he prepped it well and now he doesn't want to repeat the work.

With no prior experience with this specific task, I would probably mask it well, bead blast it lightly to give the surface some "tooth" and remove any trace of the old finish. I would then clean it up well with lacquer thinner, remask it, spray it with a coat of etching primer, and then spray the black. If the primer is going to give it too much build or film thickness for your taste, then skip the primer.

 

Thanks Chuck for the Advise , makes good sense to me .

 

:lol: :lol: Yep, that sounds like the best way except the part about wiping it after its blasted.I always have a problem with the rough metal snagging the cloth ,which results in a fuzzy mess. :yesnod: :seeya

 

I believe these hood vents are actually made from polished aluminum, but I don't think that really matters to the paint process. I am not talking about sand blasting polished aluminum here. If you use a pressurized sand blaster on aluminum, you are going to do some damage to the surface in my opinion.

I am talking about glass beading the masked hood trim in a cabinet. If you are using a glass bead cabinet and you are getting enough roughness on your parts to snag cloth, then your media is probably too coarse for the cabinet's intended purpose. Washed river sand can be used in a blast cabinet, but why cheap out on the media? Washed sand has a wide variation in particle size and can have trash and debris leading to a coarse, non-uniform finish. I think the last bag of "glass beads" I bought figured out to under a $1.00 a pound...I don't use enough beads to worry about saving money by buying river sand.

Parts coming out of my cabinet have a soft matte finish to which paint adheres well. Prior to spraying, I wipe them down several times with paper towels and lacquer thinner before spraying. I have never had any problem with snagging or lint, and usually forego using a tack rag altogether. (Tack rags usually have some kind of sticky substance to grab the dust, and for me, that adds an additional unknown to the equation. I would rather just have it VERY clean and worry about lint or dust particles when it happens.)

I don't have specific experience painting 63 hood trim, but I have painted a ton of other parts. What would make these hood trim parts any different from other parts? You have to apply the coating to a well prepped surface. Ideally, the surface should be prepped by scuffing, sanding, or media blasting, and it MUST be clean for painting. If my lazy azz tries to shortcut any of these requirements, then I get results that are commensurate with my preparation input...If I were careless enough, you could probably knock it off with a feather duster, but that is hard to imagine. :nonod: :(

 

The '63 hood grilles like other automotive aluminumn trim parts are bright annodized, so any abrasive process is going to damage the surface coating. A bare polished aluminum surface will rapidly oxidize and dull - in a matter or a few days to a few weeks.

I have yet to do this job on my SWC, but the only way I can think of to repaint them would be to thoroughly clean them chemically - paint stripper and lacquer thinner or acetone, then mask them with a proper width tape, and paint them with Krylon 1613 or equivalent.

I would imagine in production that the vendor used a mask. Seems to me a laser cut mask could be made at a reasonable price, but the restoration parts suppliers haven't picked up on that.

The OEM paint was not that durable, and unrestored '63s usually show some flaking, but if the surface annodization is clean and intact, a thin coat of Krylon 1613 or equivalent should probably have reasonable life on a car that doesn't bake in the sun all day.

Duke

 

Duke, I wasn't suggesting that the entire insert be bead blasted all over.

I would only bead blast that portion to be painted. This would require that the insert be masked off everywhere during the bead blasting except those surface areas to be painted. If the glass beaded surface is protected with a good paint coating, then it is no more subject to oxidation than the anodized portion. I don't think it would make any difference if you put a matte finish on the anodizing under the paint. Who would know? Why would you care?

In my opinion, the hood trims would have to masked twice; once for bead blasting, then again after the part is thoroughly cleaned to remove all traces of the glass beads, dust, and any trace of grease/fingerprints. Beads and dust tend to lift up the edge of the masking tape during the beading process and stick to the adhesive, so if you try to get by with one masking, you are going to have a mess. You can get masking tape in many widths down to 1/16" (maybe less) width from 3M...I expect there is a width (what...about a 1/4"?) that would fit the "grille" lines pretty close.


[Modified by Chuck Sangerhausen, 11:32 AM 10/9/2002]

 

Again , thanks to everyone . I'll bounce this off my painter . One hood panel is staying respectable but the other had a huge hunk of black come off . The painter said he chemically cleaned 1st for wax/oils, then pinstriped the high chrome sections and shot the paint.Don't know all the specifics but be sure I'll find out more 4 all of us