R1234

I know there are places that will do it but can I do it? If so, can you tell me how? :smash:

no_radio

From what a friend (Auto AC tech) told me the original POAs were crap, so rebuilt ones aren't expected to fare much better.
That being said, I think Dr. Rebuild sells a POA rebuild kit, but I haven't had a need to peruse his catalog in a couple years so I could be wrong.
Check it out, maybe he has it. If not, check Paragon Reproductions, they have alot of rebuild kits for various components.
Jeff

R1234

I'm being advised locally to eliminate the POA and use the update kit. The a/c system is getting to be the most aggravating part of this project.

Packy76

Not sure if its the same but...I purchased what to NAPA was called an o-ring kit but in fact it was a dessicant bag kit for an accumulator/drier for my 76 vette, Ive yet since installed since I'm waiting for the main hose

TNT

Origional GM POA valves are not rebuildable, they were crimped together. Now the VIR valve assy is rebuildable, it has a couple of o-rings and a dessicant bag in it. Now go back even farther and the STV valve is rebuildable, a diaphram and a stiff spring! Thad

R1234

I've recently acquired another original style POA valve. This valve is supposed to be in good working order. It's used but looks brand new. It was a pain taking out the original POA and expansion valve. I also found out how much wrenches cost when you need 1" and larger! The Original POA valve had a sludge and grim build up in it when looking down into the valve ends. I don't know if you can clean this up and it would still work or not. I guess if I could pressure test it and it follows the chassis service manuals pressure results of 29.5 at sea level it would check out okay. When comparing the new (used) POA and original valve the difference are the side thickness of the built in 1 1/2" nut. The original is slightly wider.
The original expansion valve and my NAPA replacement look nothing alike.
I'll store the originals away for now.
I have converted all the o-rings to the green type, replaced all hoses, new repo condenser, flushed out original evap., expansion valve, and POA. The system is all plumbed up and ready for a nitrogen purge and then vacuum testing. I hope evrything is tight and there are no leaks. Fortunately, I have a buddy at work who still has some cans of r12 left over from the days you could buy it at the parts store.

ptwohey

[QUOTE=R1234;1544597130]I've recently acquired another original style POA valve. This valve is supposed to be in good working order. It's used but looks brand new. It was a pain taking out the original POA and expansion valve. I also found out how much wrenches cost when you need 1" and larger! The Original POA valve had a sludge and grim build up in it when looking down into the valve ends. I don't know if you can clean this up and it would still work or not. I guess if I could pressure test it and it follows the chassis service manuals pressure results of 29.5 at sea level it would check out okay. When comparing the new (used) POA and original valve the difference are the side thickness of the built in 1 1/2" nut. The original is slightly wider.


Hi. I know this id an okd tread but hooe you are OK snd still a nrmvet

how did you make out wirh the AC? I have similar issues but will convert to 134 if necessary

thanks.