I have built my 60 as correct as I can up to "body back on". I am building it for myself and I don't THINK I will have it judged. My concern is, if I change my mind or decide to sell it.
How far do I go? Many items can be replaced later. Date coded windhield and window glass is an example of hard to change later. I have kept all original items that I replaced (Master cylinder , rear leaf springs, etc. Other then numbers, If your buying a car for the purpose of making it TOP FLIGHT what are the items that you look for?
I am looking to finally
:steering:
next spring
Larry

 

You need to have everthing as original as possible to go for a Top Flight or Bloomington Gold car. The idea being to restore the car to a condition that is a close as possible to the way the car left the factory. Obviously, having the original drivetrain is a major factor. In addition, there are lots of little things that are important too. For each item that is not correct or is missing you will be deducted points. You could still Top Flight with some items not being correct. However, your chances diminish the more the originality is changed. Obvious reproduction parts will get marked down.

You mentioned leaf springs. The repro springs don't have the groove although they are fully funtional. You would get a deduct here (not sure how much) but if the rest of the car is "right" then you could still Top Flight. A car that is Top Flight or Bloomington Gold and then driven alot may not judge Top Flight/Gold later on. It would have to be cleaned, detailed and freshened up where necessary to make it.

In answer to your question, a buyer looking to go for a Flight Judged car will access what is correct or original and what needs to be purchased and restored before making a decision on purchasing an unrestored car. The less correct the car, the greater the expense to restore. However, there are many buyers who just want a clean original appearing car to enjoy and drive. They might not care at all whether it's a crate motor or "correct" motor. :chevy

 

Personally, I believe those that are after Top Flight cars will generally buy ones that already are, would be in a state that inexpensive changes would returnt he car to such, or a complete project car.

The goal on mine is to return the car to factory correct appearance, being as correct as possible. That provides a good range of potential future buyers.

 

I don't think you realize how really complicated your question is. If you're that curious, join the NCRS and get a copy of the judging manuals for your year, along with the judging sheets. You'll be shocked at how detailed the judging is. I've never seen a restored car achieve Top Flight status without using the manuals as a guide.

Good luck.

 

My NCRS # is 32385. I have ST12, Nolans book, judging manual, Restorer disk and the benifit of the first class advice on several boards. My question is , as in the example of glass, what other items would be hard to replace later, that one might overlook. (nothing complicated, just discussion)
Larry

 

Hey Larry,

I too am building a 1960 corvette with the intent of going"top flight" or the equivilent. I too belong to several of the forums and am continually learning what it will take. I will be in the St. Charles area for the Chevrolet Nomad Convention next year. Maybe I can look you up and get a look at your corvette!

Greg
1960fivette

 

Ok, then have you attended a judging meet to see how cars are judged? I must be missing something here with your question.

Seems to me that if you conciously install a part that is incorrect and wish to go back later to put the 'correct' part, it will cost you the labour (a cost you already are familiar with, as you are the one presently restoring the car) plus the cost of the 'correct' part, minus what you sell the incorrect part for.

:confused:

 

What am I missing here???
I explained that I built it correct up to"body on"
It is labor intensive to replace many items AFTER the body is on.
I gave an example of GLASS which would be expensive to replace later.
Air cleaner, perfect ignition shielding, gas cap, radiator cap are examples of some "can be expensive" items that someone could "with out to much trouble"
replace later. AGAIN, I was making conversation, some say sorely needed here, with a relatively simple question. What items might I, in my stupidity, overlook that would be difficult to replace later?
I begin to understand the reluctance of members to post.
Larry :banghead:

 

If I understand your question, then let me give you my point of view.

You are building a vette to your standards, to hell with the guy wanting to buy it at a later date if you decide to sell it. Just tell him the original parts that you have are included in the sale.

Don't compromise your dream for something you might never do with it, (sell it).

And if I were to buy your Corvette 5 years from now for the purpose of showing it, and chasing the awards. The first thing I would do is a complete tear down and rebuild myself, no matter how far you took it to start with.

Hope this helps. :seeya

 

Yes, me too. Have a nice day. :seeya

 

My NCRS # is 238, and I've been going through what you're going through since 1974. Answer is, "It depends." It depends on cost and your satisfaction. How much are you going to save by doing it wrong? And how willing are you to live with the wrong item? Versus spending the extra money to do it right the first time? But make sure you figure in all the costs.

For example, I had an incorrect Holley carb on my incorrect intake manifold on my incorrect motor in my '62. But I want the engine compartment to look like a stock '62. So, I want to use the stock air cleaner ($150). Which requires the stock carb ($400). Which requires the stock intake manifold ($400). That sounds like too much money to be correct. But I want it, and the Summit air cleaner on the Holley carb with the rubber gas line aggravates me. Plus those dam* Holleys never work right.

How much time and money do you think I've spent over the past few years on new Holleys, new Holley parts, gas lines, filters, aftermarket air cleaners, electric chokes, etc. to get something to work halfway right. Probably 1/2 the money quoted above. If I bought stock stuff from the beginning, I'd be finished now, and it'd look the way I want it to look. Nice thing about the correct stock parts are that they bolt-on. There's much to be said for bolt-on.

I've got to replace my incorrect transmission. I could have rebuilt the wrong one. Or, rebuilt the right one. Delta cost was only slightly more for the right one. That's an easy decision. Harder decisions are the air cleaner/carb/manifold one above. But as I continue in this hobby, I continue to discover that it's almost always cheaper to spend the extra money to do it right the first time. It's certainly quicker.

It's your car. You need to decide for yourself. Just make sure you figure in all the costs.

 

i repaced all parts that took alat of time or hard to do like busshings date corest brake calpers for the cost was close i gess what im saying is when i did this i new i was going for top flight so repaired or replaced as needed ibelive that the reason you throught it hard to grt a long is we all have the sickness and do not want you to catch it for we belive it is your car and you should be happy with it
so have fun and when you catch it o boy we have another one with no cuer
docmow

 

Right now if you have the body off take a good close look at your frame and suspension. Everything on that frame is easy to get to, work on or replace before you drop the body. Get a NCRS judging guide and look at the starter,suspension, ignition shielding, Heater and a/c systems, fuel lines, gas tank, suspension, and anything you can see that needs replacing and will fit your budget.

Most items can be replaced after the body is on but they are tough to get to. If you have a limited budget now look at the fuel lines, gas tank, frame, and drive train. Clean paint and replace whatever you can.

 

Body is back on and being preped for paint. Frame was painted, and everthing attached was new. All brake parts, lines, emergency brake cables, gas lines, tank and all steering and suspension parts are new. I had the heads and block done and I replaced rings and bearings. Carb, starter and generator have all been rebuilt. All chrome has been re-done or replaced. I am buffing all stainless. I'm having the body work and paint done. When I get it back I need to replace the windshield, re-install wiper assy, heater, dash and gauges, seats, etc. I'll replace all wireing and interior and SHAZAMM -- its done!
:rolleyes:
With enough time and dollars I'm going for about next May. :auto:
Larry

 

Looking forward to seeing it! Luv them 60's!

Greg
1960fivette :steering: :seeya